Advice on moving a plug socket 3ft.

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Hello.

I'm wanting to move a single plug socket 3ft to the right and turn it in to a double one.

I'm wondering whats going to be the best way of extending the cable for the new socket.

I know 3ft's not a lot but its all part of the layout of my room.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
Are you certain whether it's a spur or on a ring? Either way, are you able to strip out the existing cable and replace with new longer lengths?
 
Hi.

Its on a ring I believe. Its in a bedroom which I'm converting in to an xbox room. In the room theres two single sockets on opposite sides of the room. I don't think i'll be able to add a new single length of cable although I appreciate that would probably be the best option. I need some way of joining a 3ft length of cable that'll run behind the wall (in trunking) to the new socket.

I was thinking of asking an electrician but guessing its to smaller a job to really warrant one. there going to want at least £30 just to cover there fuel and time.
 
You can solder the cables and insulate with heat shrink, or even crimp them.

You can also get Maintenance Free Junction Boxes that you can use to join cables. The 'Maintenance Free' bit means it can be put into accessible places.

I assume you're aware of cable safe zones? If not that's the other thing you need to be aware of.
 
Thanks for the reply.

Just been reading up on it. I might just leave it where it is although change the single socket for a double one and run an extension lead along the top of the skirting board instead.

Not what I really wanted to do but looks like its going to be easier and the cheapest option.

Thanks
Mark
 
From what you've asked it seems you have very little knowledge of electrical installation, my advice would be to leave it alone and call in a local spark, do you not know anyone in the trade who could sort it out for you?

You could save money by chasing the wall across first and also cutting the box into the wall for the new socket. A simple job for an electrician, like you said previously about an hours work.
 
could you not chase the wall for double skt box also for the cabling and capping , then run a 3ft length of 2.5 cabling from your single to double box , terminate it onto a terminal block and put a blank fascia on the single socket incase you need access to it ?
 
Its all done now guys. I just swapped the single socket for a double and buying a mains block with a 2m lead which I'll run along to skirting board to save the hassle of trying to move the socket.
 
Moving forward 8.5 years :)

Might be considering this myself.
Solid/breeze block wall, moving a single socket (ring main) to the right between 12" - 18" so I can fit a wider radiator.

This would mean original socket would be behind the new rad.

My thought would be:

1: chase out the wall and make a new hole for a new socket box.
2: Run a cable from the current socket to the new socket.
3: The now old socket to have a blanking plate fitted.

4: My only real query is what would be the best type of connector to join the wires.
It would be to expend the ring, so that's 2 lots of 2.5 Twin/Earth to be connected.
And all fit within the old socket.

Now old fashioned connector blocks would do the job perfectly
But would they be allowed to be used, if they are within the hole in the wall with a blanking plate screwed over the front and also behind a rad.
Logically I cannot see any problem whatsoever.

4f521eb2ea27be2444140de5931d73f4.png
 
Moving forward 8.5 years :)

Might be considering this myself.
Solid/breeze block wall, moving a single socket (ring main) to the right between 12" - 18" so I can fit a wider radiator.

This would mean original socket would be behind the new rad.

My thought would be:

1: chase out the wall and make a new hole for a new socket box.
2: Run a cable from the current socket to the new socket.
3: The now old socket to have a blanking plate fitted.

4: My only real query is what would be the best type of connector to join the wires.
It would be to expend the ring, so that's 2 lots of 2.5 Twin/Earth to be connected.
And all fit within the old socket.

Now old fashioned connector blocks would do the job perfectly
But would they be allowed to be used, if they are within the hole in the wall with a blanking plate screwed over the front and also behind a rad.
Logically I cannot see any problem whatsoever.

4f521eb2ea27be2444140de5931d73f4.png
Why not just get WAGO connectors and stick them in a maintenance free junction block? You know you'll never need to get to them them.

You can either get push fits or ones with little levers. They're all much better than chopblock.

 
Used those Wago connectors for a load of light fittings. Made the job very easy.
 
Thanks.
I've never seen those before.
I will admit, when something HAS to be secure, not easy to get to (in wall/under floor) then I will tend to go with old school "That's not going to ever come apart" type things.

Plastic and sprung clips, are modern and without question fast and easy to use, but I'd be worried about.
Like I'd never use push fit plastic pipes or connectors under the floor for central heating.

Having a quick Google about them, they seem to be ok for Ring Mains use, but I think I read they need to be in their special holder for that use, and that holder won't fit into a single socket hole from the looks of it.

All that aside, they do look very handy, but I have one question:
Why do you feel these sprung clip down connectors are better than an actual metal hole, which the wires passed through, and a brass screw than bites into the wire?

Block connectors are, in effect the exact same type of connection as a mains socket has to hold the wires, hence why I'd generally use them, which is why I'm interested why you feel otherwise.

Thanks.
 
Yeah they are brilliant. I think the ones with levers are a little easier if you have any cables that are stranded as opposed to all solid core twin and earth.
 
Thanks.
I've never seen those before.
I will admit, when something HAS to be secure, not easy to get to (in wall/under floor) then I will tend to go with old school "That's not going to ever come apart" type things.

Plastic and sprung clips, are modern and without question fast and easy to use, but I'd be worried about.
Like I'd never use push fit plastic pipes or connectors under the floor for central heating.

Having a quick Google about them, they seem to be ok for Ring Mains use, but I think I read they need to be in their special holder for that use, and that holder won't fit into a single socket hole from the looks of it.

All that aside, they do look very handy, but I have one question:
Why do you feel these sprung clip down connectors are better than an actual metal hole, which the wires passed through, and a brass screw than bites into the wire?

Block connectors are, in effect the exact same type of connection as a mains socket has to hold the wires, hence why I'd generally use them, which is why I'm interested why you feel otherwise.

Thanks.
Screws come loose, more common with solid core than stranded. Hot cold cycling (behind a radiator perhaps?!) sounds like a great way to have screws come loose.

At the end of the day chopblock or other screw fixings - eg screwed junction boxes - aren't actually allowed to be burried in walls per regulations, yet these types of connectors are. It's I'm sure because someone has worked out which perform better... The use of chop block in a location that can't be easily accessed is a building regs fail. ( See section on maintenance free junction boxes here: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/DataSheets/Hager/JB_Guide.pdf )

The terminals in the back of a mains socket can be pretty easily inspected and tightened, just 2 screws to access from the front. In this case it sounds like to inspect or tighten if you needed to you'd have to take the radiator off first...

You did ask why not use chop block... :). At the end of the day it will work... but there are better solutions out there.
 

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