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Arcam AVR390 / AVR550 / AVR850 including Dirac Live®

Steve356

Well-known Member
Hello guys, I recently purchased an AVR550 and while waiting for the delivery of the speaker I would like to get ready to properly utilize Dirac Live setup. So here a couple of questions:
1) Do I need to utilize the Dirac version available on the Arcam's website "Dirac v1.2.31 (PC) (Legacy projects)" or the one on the Dirac's website "DiracLive v2.3.0"?
2) I'm planning to utilize the system in 7.1 mode for movies and 2.1 for music. Do I need to I need to make 2 separate calibrations or one is enough?
Thanks in advance for your support.
1) v2.3.0

2) One should be enough.
 

Rambles

Distinguished Member
Hello guys, I recently purchased an AVR550 and while waiting for the delivery of the speaker I would like to get ready to properly utilize Dirac Live setup. So here a couple of questions:
1) Do I need to utilize the Dirac version available on the Arcam's website "Dirac v1.2.31 (PC) (Legacy projects)" or the one on the Dirac's website "DiracLive v2.3.0"?
2) I'm planning to utilize the system in 7.1 mode for movies and 2.1 for music. Do I need to I need to make 2 separate calibrations or one is enough?
Thanks in advance for your support.
Hi.

1. Use the version from Dirac's website.

2. Only one dirac calibration slot available on the 550.
 

Sgt Hartman

Member
1) v2.3.0

2) One should be enough.
the latest version 2.3 works

you can only have one calibration on the FMJ's
Hi.

1. Use the version from Dirac's website.

2. Only one dirac calibration slot available on the 550.
Guys, thank you very much for the quick and helpful response. I've now only one question, how do I switch on the AVR from 7.1 to 2.1 and viceversa while watching movies and listening music?
Thanks.
 

Steve356

Well-known Member
Guys, thank you very much for the quick and helpful response. I've now only one question, how do I switch on the AVR from 7.1 to 2.1 and viceversa while watching movies and listening music?
Thanks.
The way I use mine is to have the HDMI output from my Blu Ray player connected to the BD input on the Arcam with the setting "As Spkr Types". That then plays all my movies (and surround music) in the appropriate surround sound mode. I then connect the analogue outputs of my Blu Ray player to the analogue inputs of the CD input on the Arcam. I use a setting of "Sub + Sat" or Left/Right (full range speakers with no sub) and play my stereo CDs and SACDs via that input.
 

Sgt Hartman

Member
The way I use mine is to have the HDMI output from my Blu Ray player connected to the BD input on the Arcam with the setting "As Spkr Types". That then plays all my movies (and surround music) in the appropriate surround sound mode. I then connect the analogue outputs of my Blu Ray player to the analogue inputs of the CD input on the Arcam. I use a setting of "Sub + Sat" or Left/Right (full range speakers with no sub) and play my stereo CDs and SACDs via that input.
Uhm, I see a problem for me then... With my system I play both music and movies through a single media player, Nvidia Shield, therefore wired with the AVR only via HDMI and played through the same application, Plex.
 

Rambles

Distinguished Member
You can just turn off upmixing when listening to music and the amp will play it back as stereo.
 

Steve356

Well-known Member
Uhm, I see a problem for me then... With my system a play both music and movies through a single media player, Nvidia Shield, therefore wired with the AVR only via HDMI and played through the same application, Plex.
Not necessarily. If you set your only input to to the AVR to "As Spkr types", it will play whatever mode your media player sends, e.g. 7.1/5.1 surround or 2.1 Stereo.
 

Sgt Hartman

Member
Not necessarily. If you set your only input to the AVR to "As Spkr types", it will play whatever mode your media player sends, e.g. 7.1/5.1 surround or 2.1 Stereo.
Ah, I knew this for movies but I thought that mp3/flac were not "mapped" 2.0/2.1. Thanks!
 

Steve356

Well-known Member
Ah, I knew this for movies but I thought that mp3/flac were not "mapped" 2.0/2.1. Thanks!
They should be mapped as Stereo, which will play as either 2.0 or 2.1 depending on your preferred configuration. At least that's how it works in my system when I listen to iTunes via my Apple TV box.
 

Sgt Hartman

Member
They should be mapped as Stereo, which will play as either 2.0 or 2.1 depending on your preferred configuration. At least that's how it works in my system when I listen to iTunes via my Apple TV box.
Thanks for the tips Steve! In any case I suppose that another solution is to unplug the speaker that I don't want utilize... :laugh:
 

inferno_red

Active Member
I just got a svs SB16 sub. Should you make any peq adjustments prior to Dirac (phase/polarity/eq etc)? Or should you not bother and just let Dirac do it’s thing?
 

pepelugil

Active Member
Hi,

Sorry for this little off topic, but I’ve bought an Umik-1 and most of you use them, I’d be pleased if you could clear up a doubt I have with mine: I’ve downloaded calibration file from MiniDSP web and I see it starts with a -44.783 value for 10.054 Hz that raises proportionally to a value of -10.065 at 13.698Hz, then for 13.869 Hz it raises abruptly to -0,9164 and stays most of the time between -1 and +1 until 8630.343 Hz when again drops to -10.510 and then progressively quips falling down until a value of -79.665 is reached at 20016.816 Hz. If this value of almost -80 normal or do I have to worry?

But what bothers me more is that between 22.193 Hz and 70.132 Hz the values abruptly change from -1 values to values between +10 and +12 in this range, does this mean that my Umik-1 is not good enough for these frequencies and that’s why these corrections are needed?

Thanks
 

Sgt Hartman

Member
Hello guys, is anybody there with Arendal speakers and an Arcam AVR? I'd like to know how to properly make the setup with Dirac Live, thanks!
 

007L2Kill

Well-known Member
Hi,

Sorry for this little off topic, but I’ve bought an Umik-1 and most of you use them, I’d be pleased if you could clear up a doubt I have with mine: I’ve downloaded calibration file from MiniDSP web and I see it starts with a -44.783 value for 10.054 Hz that raises proportionally to a value of -10.065 at 13.698Hz, then for 13.869 Hz it raises abruptly to -0,9164 and stays most of the time between -1 and +1 until 8630.343 Hz when again drops to -10.510 and then progressively quips falling down until a value of -79.665 is reached at 20016.816 Hz. If this value of almost -80 normal or do I have to worry?

But what bothers me more is that between 22.193 Hz and 70.132 Hz the values abruptly change from -1 values to values between +10 and +12 in this range, does this mean that my Umik-1 is not good enough for these frequencies and that’s why these corrections are needed?

Thanks
Sounds very wrong, tell us your mics serial number and I take a look.

How’s it measure via REW?
 

Sgt Hartman

Member
I have the the arendals and avr850. They sound fantastic.
I personally have the 550, do you set up the AVR in a particular way before lunching the Dirac software (e.g. Speaker Types, Levels, etc.) or do you let it do all the job autonomously?
 

inferno_red

Active Member
I personally have the 550, do you set up the AVR in a particular way before lunching the Dirac software (e.g. Speaker Types, Levels, etc.) or do you let it do all the job autonomously?
I level match the speaker and put the distance in. Dirac is independent of these but I do it anyway so that I can compare before and after. You will need to make sure the speakers are assigned e.g sub present etc before launching Dirac.
Dirac will eq to a curve. It doesn’t set the Cross over or speaker type. You need to do this. Good starting point would be small speakers ( let the sub take the strain) and 80hz cross over (although you don’t say what arendals you have so this value could change?).
There are loads of pages in this thread with useful tips and the Dirac website has a manual that will talk you through it...best of luck
 

fatboy frank

Well-known Member
Hi,

Sorry for this little off topic, but I’ve bought an Umik-1 and most of you use them, I’d be pleased if you could clear up a doubt I have with mine: I’ve downloaded calibration file from MiniDSP web and I see it starts with a -44.783 value for 10.054 Hz that raises proportionally to a value of -10.065 at 13.698Hz, then for 13.869 Hz it raises abruptly to -0,9164 and stays most of the time between -1 and +1 until 8630.343 Hz when again drops to -10.510 and then progressively quips falling down until a value of -79.665 is reached at 20016.816 Hz. If this value of almost -80 normal or do I have to worry?

But what bothers me more is that between 22.193 Hz and 70.132 Hz the values abruptly change from -1 values to values between +10 and +12 in this range, does this mean that my Umik-1 is not good enough for these frequencies and that’s why these corrections are needed?

Thanks
Sounds very wrong, tell us your mics serial number and I take a look.

How’s it measure via REW?

Try down loading it again, as the results i get for your mic serial number are very different
 

fatboy frank

Well-known Member

fatboy frank

Well-known Member
Your link doesn;t show values anywhere near +10.
The link i linked to looks fine to me, although i'm no expert on the subject, as @RBZ5416 say's tthere's nothing like the values you said you were getting. Try down loading the Cal file again, maybe you had a dodgy download!
 

Sgt Hartman

Member
I level match the speaker and put the distance in. Dirac is independent of these but I do it anyway so that I can compare before and after. You will need to make sure the speakers are assigned e.g sub present etc before launching Dirac.
Dirac will eq to a curve. It doesn’t set the Cross over or speaker type. You need to do this. Good starting point would be small speakers ( let the sub take the strain) and 80hz cross over (although you don’t say what arendals you have so this value could change?).
There are loads of pages in this thread with useful tips and the Dirac website has a manual that will talk you through it...best of luck
My setup will be 2x 1723 Towers, 1x 1723 S Central, 4x 1723 S Bookshelf, 1x Subwoofer 2. So basically I should insert anyway distances, speaker types (only subwoofer Large?), etc.? Crossover frequency still at 80 Hz?
 

fatboy frank

Well-known Member
My setup will be 2x 1723 Towers, 1x 1723 S Central, 4x 1723 S Bookshelf, 1x Subwoofer 2. So basically I should insert anyway distances, speaker types (only subwoofer Large?), etc.? Crossover frequency still at 80 Hz?
If i was you, i'd do a basic setup ie set your speaker distances, speakers small, sub present and initial crossover of 80Hz, do a level match using either the internal test tones, or preferably using an external source and calibration disc and SPL meter. Get used to the natural sound of your new speakers and get some hours on them before you bother doing a Dirac calibration.
 

fatboy frank

Well-known Member
I'm doing exactly that myself while testing out some ATC front speakers with my AVR850, which I've had for 3 years.
Which ATC's ? Nice speakers whichever ones you've got, i am considering adding some ATC SCM 20-2 actives for stereo.
 

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