Denon AVR-X4500H Owners Thread

Hello All
Please excuse me if this has be covered. I could not seem to find in as it pertains to my exact issue.
I have the Panasonic DP-UB820 and the Denon AVR X4500. When I select the Dobly Atmos audio on any UHD Blu ray (Godzilla King of Monsters, for example), The 820 seems to output TrueHD and when I look on the Denon, I do not see Dobly Atmos, only Dobly TrueHD. I have done the factory reset on the Panasonic UB820. Set the audio output to Bitstream and tuned off Secondary audio output as suggested from many members from this super helpful forum. As a point of reference, I am also using an Apple TV 4K into the {Media Center INPUT} of the Denon and am getting Dolby Atmos from Disney Plus, Netflix, etc. The Panasonic is connected to the {Blu-Ray INPUT} and I am using just the HDMI out on the Panasonic labeled (Video and Audio). I have that output set to Auto and the Audio output set to Audio only on the Panasonic. Is there some other Denon setting that I need to check on the Denon AVR to decode and display Dolby Atmos from the UB820 from the Blu-Ray input? Is it possible that particular input (Blu-Ray on the Denon) would not be able to decode the ATMOS signal? Im pretty new to this ATMOS thing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

I'm two weeks into owning my 4500 (will provide review shortly). For Blu Ray and Apple TV 4K I've configured Settings buttons so they always come on as Pure (yellow button) so that the native source soundtrack gets played on the AVR and Dolby Atmos will show for appropriate disks. I can then choose to up mix 5.1 soundtracks if I want to. For Sky Q I've set to up mix with Neural:X but that might change if we get more Atmos soundtracks.
 
I'm two weeks into owning my 4500 (will provide review shortly). For Blu Ray and Apple TV 4K I've configured Settings buttons so they always come on as Pure (yellow button) so that the native source soundtrack gets played on the AVR and Dolby Atmos will show for appropriate disks. I can then choose to up mix 5.1 soundtracks if I want to. For Sky Q I've set to up mix with Neural:X but that might change if we get more Atmos soundtracks.

Be aware that PURE DIRECT bypasses the receiver's room EQ correction and bass management. Audyssey XT32 would no longer be in effect and the speaker sizes and associated crossover configigurations wouldn't be applied while the receiver is set to its PURE or PURE DIRECT modes.
 
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Installed my 4500 yesterday, lovely unit - very pleased.

I do have to say though that for most applications (Netflix, Prime TV app and SKY) the sound isn't that much better than the Denon 3312 I had before, however for the DTS-Master and Dolby-HD it does sound a lot better.

Pleased the app. works well and wireless is much easier too.
 
On another note, my front speakers are driven with a separate amp, so I was wondering if I could use my rear speakers for the biamping function? I've tried to cycle through the options but I don't see a 'rear biamp' option :/
 
On another note, my front speakers are driven with a separate amp, so I was wondering if I could use my rear speakers for the biamping function? I've tried to cycle through the options but I don't see a 'rear biamp' option :/
As bi-amp for the fronts? Possible but there will be a power imbalance and I doubt very much you will get an real audio improvement. As an aside the remaining speakers connected to the receiver will be robbed of some power.
 
As bi-amp for the fronts?
Possible but there will be a power imbalance and I doubt very much you will get an real audio improvement.
No, the fronts are a separate system - pre-out to my audiophile amp, to my quad 2912's. Perfectly fine (and since they are monopoles, no need to biamp)

Hence, I would love to instead bi-amp my rears. Sadly in the amp assign menu I don't see a way to do this, and I couldnt think of some way to "trick" the denon to send the proper bi-amped signal to the rears through clever wiring.

As an aside the remaining speakers connected to the receiver will be robbed of some power.

This one is strange to me. Regardless of biamping or not - I've heard this here and there but I can't work out what to actually expect. If I hook up all amps into 7.1.4, 9 internal plus 2 preout, indeed math says 9*125 whereas the device is rated at 710W - but what to expect then? 80W per channel?
 
This one is strange to me. Regardless of biamping or not - I've heard this here and there but I can't work out what to actually expect. If I hook up all amps into 7.1.4, 9 internal plus 2 preout, indeed math says 9*125 whereas the device is rated at 710W - but what to expect then? 80W per channel?
All the amps take their power from one power supply. The more speakers you add the less power there is to go around. Figures are quoted by most manufacturers for just two speakers drawing power. Add two more and the power is diluted further, 100 watts goes down to 90 watts and so on. By passive bi-amping you are still drawing power from that initial source as the receiver sees it as another set of speakers. Basically robbing Peter to pay Paul.

If you have a separate power or stereo amp to drive the fronts then that power saved is going to be available for the remaining speakers and everyone's a winner. I run my X6200 coupled to a Rega stereo amp, not so much for the power but to keep my music side away from the receiver as I regard it as quite poor. Other than that my X6200 has behaved impeccably for the last four years.
 
All the amps take their power from one power supply. The more speakers you add the less power there is to go around. Figures are quoted by most manufacturers for just two speakers drawing power. Add two more and the power is diluted further, 100 watts goes down to 90 watts and so on. By passive bi-amping you are still drawing power from that initial source as the receiver sees it as another set of speakers. Basically robbing Peter to pay Paul.
Yup, so with my x4500 I guess I have 700-odd watt to go around assuming reasonably efficient amps (and they are class D's so.).. 700/9=80W if all amps are connected - which they will be if I go full 7.2.4

Not Deeply impressive but if the amp is 'dumb' and just spreads power equally, that 80 gets me, according to Peak SPL Calculator, 100dB at listening (80W, my speakers are 90db/1W/1M,. 4m back)

If instead the amp is smart - most of my speakers (e.g. the heights) will be MUCH closer so need to be fed a much smaller signal to reach that 105DB that THX asks for. If the amp gives 'just enough' to the amps needing to do less work, and slightly more to the amps for my rears... that would be dandy. (yikes, in fact according to that calc, the speakers need to take the full 200W to reach 105dB...)

Anyone any idea if Denon's power distribution is dumb or smart (or am I completely off with my reasoning?)
 
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Yup, so with my x4500 I guess I have 700-odd watt to go around assuming reasonably efficient amps (and they are class D's so.).. 700/9=80W if all amps are connected - which they will be if I go full 7.2.4

Not Deeply impressive but if the amp is 'dumb' and just spreads power equally, that 80 gets me, according to Peak SPL Calculator, 100dB at listening (80W, my speakers are 90db/1W/1M,. 4m back)

If instead the amp is smart - most of my speakers (e.g. the heights) will be MUCH closer so need to be fed a much smaller signal to reach that 105DB that THX asks for. If the amp gives 'just enough' to the amps needing to do less work, and slightly more to the amps for my rears... that would be dandy.

Anyone any idea if Denon's power distribution is dumb or smart (or am I completely off with my reasoning?)
It will only draw the power when needed, it's the power transformers ability to give and sustain the power that's more important. The receiver is designed to run to those figures but in some enthusiastic scenes they can sometimes run out of puff. The less burden on the receiver, ie, by using a power amp for the fronts will certainly help. As for actual figures you will only really find them if someone has done a bench test.
 
Yup, so with my x4500 I guess I have 700-odd watt to go around assuming reasonably efficient amps (and they are class D's so.).. 700/9=80W if all amps are connected - which they will be if I go full 7.2.4

Not Deeply impressive but if the amp is 'dumb' and just spreads power equally, that 80 gets me, according to Peak SPL Calculator, 100dB at listening (80W, my speakers are 90db/1W/1M,. 4m back)

If instead the amp is smart - most of my speakers (e.g. the heights) will be MUCH closer so need to be fed a much smaller signal to reach that 105DB that THX asks for. If the amp gives 'just enough' to the amps needing to do less work, and slightly more to the amps for my rears... that would be dandy. (yikes, in fact according to that calc, the speakers need to take the full 200W to reach 105dB...)

Anyone any idea if Denon's power distribution is dumb or smart (or am I completely off with my reasoning?)
It will only draw the power when needed, it's the power transformers ability to give and sustain the power that's more important. The receiver is designed to run to those figures but in some enthusiastic scenes they can sometimes run out of puff. The less burden on the receiver, ie, by using a power amp for the fronts will certainly help.
Required in fact, since I'm looking to drive 11 speakers, and the x4500 has only 9 amps.
But perhaps a second amp - ooh or maybe even a dual amp for bi-amping ;) might lighten the load on the rest..
As for actual figures you will only really find them if someone has done a bench test.

Cool. To be clear I don't at all expect to run at 105DB, but THX spec asks for that kind of headroom.
Wonder if someone has done a bench test..

Does remind me though: the biamping? I guess it's not possile to rear-biamp with the bare denon device, just front-biamp?
 
to run at 105DB
You use to listen at 105dB...…..I said you use to listen at 105dB.:D

Denons are calibrated at 75dB for reference. Officially they can go to +18dB at the MLP after running Audyssey. I think Yamahas are referenced higher 85dB with a 105dB peak (???).
 
You use to listen at 105dB...…..I said you use to listen at 105dB.:D
Actually I'm a bit of an audiophile, and not cool enough to go to the right parties, so I still have all my hearing. And like to keep it that way.. I want out at 80ish dB!

But.. it's not about that, the main point of the THX reference levels is to give a massive amount of headroom for audio engineers to do what they want. Their actual tracks are not supposed to hit a real 105dB into your ears, but they 'need to be able to'..

Not sure I want to bet my ears on this though, and turn up my stereo undecupleeo to 11 and hope nothing burps or my mom calls or..
Denons are calibrated at 75dB for reference. Officially they can go to +18dB at the MLP after running Audyssey. I think Yamahas are referenced higher 85dB with a 105dB peak (???).

Frankly I have no idea how the "dB" level in an amp works, but I do know it doesn't mean that if you turn it to '85dB' you will hear 85dB where you're sitting, since it can't know where you actually are. What if you put your denon in a field and run 10km away. I bet it's not 85dB then! ;)

I suspect it's more just the "% of max", put in a hoighty toighty way ;)
 
A quick question - Does anyone know how to get the Front L&R working with the subwoofer in 2 channel / stereo mode?
 
A quick question - Does anyone know how to get the Front L&R working with the subwoofer in 2 channel / stereo mode?
Scroll through the audio options on the remote and select stereo from the drop down menu. This should bring up stereo and sub.

Stereo sound mode




Sound mode type

Description


Stereo



This mode plays 2-channel stereo audio with no additional surround sound processing.



Sound is output from the front left and right speakers, and subwoofer if connected.



When multi-channel signals are inputted, they are mixed down to 2-channel audio and are played back with no additional surround sound processing.

 
A quick question - Does anyone know how to get the Front L&R working with the subwoofer in 2 channel / stereo mode?

Yeah it 'just works' for me. It might have something to do with if you specify your front speakers as 'large' or 'small'. Basically if you specify your fronts "can't do lows' then it will certainly turn on any available subwoofers, even if you set it to stereo.

I've configured my 150x70cm speakers as 'small' for this reason :p
 
A quick question - Does anyone know how to get the Front L&R working with the subwoofer in 2 channel / stereo mode?

2 channel audio doesn't include a discrete LFE channel which is what is ordinarilly output to the sub. You can however still engage the sub even in the absence of a discrete LFE channel by using the receiver's bass management and crossover settings to send the lower end frequencies out to the sub rather than having the passive speakers portray those frequencies.

In the speaker configurations, designate the front left and right as SMALL as opposed to LARGE (full tange). This will then make any associated crossover setting you make applicable to those speakers. The crossover setting will redirecet frequencies at and below that setting to the sub.

The crossover settings you use ultimately depend upon the speakers and their rated abilities, but it is generally suggested not to use a setting less than 80Hz and or not to set it below the roll off the receiver itself measured diring calibration.

I'd suggest setting all your speakers as being SMALL and not just thefrpnt left and right speakers.

Note that bass management and the speaker sizes are not in effect if using the receiver's PURE and PURE DIRECT modes.


It is generally suggested that all speakers be set as small irrespective of their size or their rated capabilities. You may find this article of interest:

and this document:




Another way to get the sub to engage in association with 2 channel audio would be to set the receiver's subwoofer setting to LFE + MAIN. The issue with doing this is that it is prone to giving rise to bass boom and therefore generally suggested that this setting not be used.
 
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Hey all, appreciate the input!

Under:

Setup->speakers->manual setup->2ch playback

I changed it from auto to large speaker (they are set to small for everything else) which turned off the subwoofer.

Changing it back to auto has engaged the sub 😁
 
Hey all, appreciate the input!

Under:

Setup->speakers->manual setup->2ch playback

I changed it from auto to large speaker (they are set to small for everything else) which turned off the subwoofer.

Changing it back to auto has engaged the sub 😁


The LARGE setting would result in the sub only ever being engaged if the source includes an LFE channel. This setting regards the speakers as being full range and wouldn't allow frequencies at and below the associated crossovers to be redirected to the sub. 2 channel audio has no discrete LFE channel so the only time that the sub would be engaged in association with 2 channel audio would be if designating the speakers as being SMALL and letting the associated crossovers redirect frequencies at and below their settings to the sub.

The only time that you'd be able to engage the sub in association with 2 channel audio if the speakers are set as LARGE is if setting the subwoofer output setting to LFE + MAIN. It is suggested that this setting not be used though and that it be left set to its default LFE option. The reason for this is that the LFE + MAIN setting can give rise to bass boom issues.

Also note that the receiver's bass management is bypsssed and not in effect if setting the receiver into its PURE or PURE DIRECT modes. You'd once again not be engaging the sub in association with 2 channel audio while in these modes and the speakers are regarded as being full range irespective of the speaker size configurations while the receiver is in these modes.
 
Listening to HD music off Amazon music is amazing.

Imagine if I had some flac or SACD!
 
Watched Zombieland: Double Tap this morning, I’m sad enough to get a smile out of seeing this on the display for the first time:

EC7F74AD-D9A4-4EC2-B91C-0218E247A6A1.jpeg


Great audio mix, well worth a spin.
 
OK, so after 3 weeks of ownership here is my view on my replacement for my 4 year old Yamaha RX -A3050. Thanks to everyone on this thread for helping me with the setup.

My reasons for the change were that the Yamaha's HDMI Control had become very frustrating to use since I added Apple TV 4K and also that I was never going to get a Dolby Vision passthrough firmware upgrade from Yamaha. Since adding Apple TV 4K the ARC connection between my LG OLED and the Yamaha would go silent every time I wanted to use a LG App like Netflix or Amazon Prime. I would have to turn ARC off/on every time I wanted to do this.
I thought about waiting for a HDMI 2.1 receiver to come out but figured when will I need 8K processing and the current Denon has everything else I need.

I was always happy with the sound quality of the Yamaha. I had concerns when buying the Denon that it wouldn't be as good for music but it does sound every bit as good.

The Audyssey setup certainly gives me a more balanced speaker setup . I'm hearing things I never heard before and my rear speakers were setup just right without needing adjustment.

I'm very pleased with the video scaling capability of the Denon and can't believe that its better than my LG OLED so Ive now moved everything , including my OPPO 203, through the Denon.

Ive probably saved myself £1k by not waiting for a 2.1 receiver and also the current Yamaha 3080 won't sound or perform any better than this at 50% more cost. The Denon is also smaller and 25% lighter.

HDMI Control is still a 'box of frogs' but not as bad as the Yamaha. I feel I need it for ARC and lip sync. Whatever source I turn on first, the Denon typically opens up on the OPPO or TV/Audio. If I bring Sky Q out of standby first, the OPPO will also come out of standby. I even tried another Apple TV 4K to see if mine was faulty but had the same issues. I can live with these though.

Overall , very happy with my purchase!
 
I want to watch some videos from my ipad pro on my projector, I have a Denon 4500 amp i have hdmi to the projector. Question is how can I watch the ipad content via the amp with the front facing hdmi lead thats spare please?

I have an ipad pro to hdmi lead cable also that works with tv.

Thanks
 
I want to watch some videos from my ipad pro on my projector, I have a Denon 4500 amp i have hdmi to the projector. Question is how can I watch the ipad content via the amp with the front facing hdmi lead thats spare please?

I have an ipad pro to hdmi lead cable also that works with tv.

Thanks

Hopefully Iv'e understood your question, if not please feel free to correct me.

From what I gather you want to hook your iPad up to the AUX1 HDMI port on the front of your receiver to view it on your projector. The projector is on your amp's HDMI out already. You've also tested the iPad and it works when connected to your TV directly using an iPad pro to HDMI lead cable.

I used a laptop to verify this process, it should work something like this:

1) I hooked up a projector to the amp and verified the Denon setup menu displays through my projector.

2) I connected my laptop's HDMI out to the AUX1 HDMI port on the front of the amp. In your case plug your iPad pro to HDMI lead cable into the AUX1 HDMI port on the amp.

3) I pressed the AUX1 button on the amp's remote.

4) I turned on my laptop

That seems to have worked for me. Hope it works for you too.
 

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