LG B8 OLED TV - Owners and Discussion Thread

Hi

What is the use case for both>?
50Hz = EU
60Hz = USA
TV's generally come with all and but change to that area.

I have my PC Monitor 1280x900 on 75Hz and my HDMI PC Link to 4K b8 TV at 24Hz (so de-blur and -de-judder can make max use of 24fps/23.975fps footage)

what do you use them for?
Thanks.
 
HELP - every time my desktop fridge in the kitchen kicks OFF its pump or whatever it is my TV (screen only) drops off for 1 second and come back on - the previous 55" Samsung did the same - my 32/2 LCD does not suffer from it - I'm worried this is going to cause damage as its obviously a spike somewhere and the TVs Voltage Protection System is kicking in

what should I do? I have surge protector 4 way gang but thats on my PC and its printer monitor etc....

edit: just the screen goes off for 1 second, it remains on and nothing else is affected

thanks
 
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HELP - every time my desktop fridge in the kitchen kicks OFF its pump or whatever it is my TV drops off for 1 second and come back on - the previous 55" Samsung did the same - my 32/2 LCD does not suffer from it - I'm worried this is going to cause damage as its obviously a spike somewhere and the TVs Voltage Protection System is kicking in

what should I do? I have surge protector 4 way gang but thats on my PC and its printer monitor etc....

thanks

Turn the fridge of immediately and give it to someone that you don't like very much
 
HELP - every time my desktop fridge in the kitchen kicks OFF its pump or whatever it is my TV drops off for 1 second and come back on - the previous 55" Samsung did the same - my 32/2 LCD does not suffer from it - I'm worried this is going to cause damage as its obviously a spike somewhere and the TVs Voltage Protection System is kicking in

what should I do? I have surge protector 4 way gang but thats on my PC and its printer monitor etc....

thanks
Do you mean the signal drops or it powers off?

First is just EMI. Fridge might be badly shielded.

If the latter, power it off immediately and get a new one.
 
what differences are you re referring to - HD channels and UHD channels?

no- offence given but do you have good eyesight 20/20? as resolutions get higher its harder to tell the difference between em, ive got 20/20 and can just tell when Netflix moves from 1080 to 2160 as i have an info button that shows me the bitrate and resolution.

also, sky is crap for bitrate stuff. (always low)..i know the now TV app is 720p only - Netflix is amazing for 4K - try 30 days free on that and watch OUR PLANET just for pic quality - best in the world as is PLANET EARTH 2 as these are NOT movies and so haven't had as much processing, not dark, and full-color spectrum, always bring out the best of a 4K TV..just so you can see yes your TV is brill so anything crap is NOT the TV.

personally, have not used or watched anything on Sky Q or their UHD channels but a LOT of stuff these days is pseudo 4k, that it has was shot 2k-3.8K then professionally upsampled to 4K, some stuff even shot in 4-6-8K still have 2K digital intermediates which mean the 4K is again an upscale , but slightly better as the quality of pixels is better (better capture to play with)- to know if your watching stuff shot on higher than 4K cameras and has a 4K digital Intermediate (what ALL discs are made from) and thus the UHD Blu-Ray will be true 4K is to check the technical specs of the movie on iMDB technical specs section of the movie page check the camera resolutions used and where it says digital intermediate near the bottom is what your looking for.

Older movies from 20+ years back that where wholly shot 35 or 70mm are ok(ish) cos 35mm was said to be good for about 6000 lines of resolution (6K) - BUT in my experience and having seen hundreds of 1080p 35m scans and several 4K 35mm scans, I don't think 35mm IS good for 6K, I think 35mm''s digital scan limit is 4K as grain start to get heavily introduced...even on 4k on some films have a lot of grain...it all depends on
1) quality of film used (as in good brand, cheap brand)
2) the actual 'quality' of the celluloid itself as after years it starts to degrade

I watched Batman in 4K from 35mm and it was no better than 1080p in my opinion, like 1080p with sharpening 100%

so I use the method above to see what it is im ACTUALLY watching

I would NEVER rely on sky for UHD pic quality, I used to work for sky...they just want your money. always had people complaining about pic quality - Virgin probably won't be much better either.

ive watched a handfull of 4K stuff and documentaries are what truly bring out the 4k on your TV - movies not so much - imo

there's the whole "ah but the CGI is always done in 2K anyway" - not always the case and due to that type of technology upscaling is a WHOLE DIFFERENT MATTER, because CGI worlds/things are generated in 3D and can be as big or small as you like, with extra detail shown on close ins.

Its new movies from 2000+ that suffer the most (shot digitally usually ending in a 2K DI) as movie companies aren't so bothered about the quality or how it was captured, just as long as it has that 4k UHD badge on for resale for the 4th time (|VHS-DVD-BLU-RAY-4K)....AS CHEAP AS POSSIBLE

Wow that was a long reply! I’m talking about any HD v UHD program on Sky Q. To me whether I’m 7-8ft away or close up to my 55” screen I can’t see the 4 times better detail. So it could be as you say Sky just isn’t delivering the quality which is very frustrating as I’m paying extra for what exactly!
 
Having an odd HDMI ARC issue. When I have a certain device plugged in (in this case a MiSTer) it just stops working. Even if that device isn't switched on, arc just refuses to work. I've tried different ports and different HDMI cables but same result.
Is this just the nature of HDMI ARC? I can live with the issue, but I'm pretty curious as to why one specific, unpowered device could cause a problem.
 
Wow that was a long reply! I’m talking about any HD v UHD program on Sky Q. To me whether I’m 7-8ft away or close up to my 55” screen I can’t see the 4 times better detail. So it could be as you say Sky just isn’t delivering the quality which is very frustrating as I’m paying extra for what exactly!

Whilst UHD is roughly 4 times the number of pixels than HD, that doesn't mean it will equate to 4 times better detail or picture quality. That is something that is difficult to quantify and is very subjective. When we went from SD to HD, in my opinion, that was a fantastic leap forward and very noticeable. The upgrade from HD to 4K is nowhere near the same difference. It is a lot more subtle, but the difference is definitely there. In the same manner, when we inevitably go from 4K to 8K, I would guess that the difference will be even more subtle and may require at least a 75" TV to easily see it.
 
iangreasby is 100% correct - imagine If and WHEN we go 8K... only a video pro under the age of 40 might see the difference lol... "4K is just Full HD for large screen TV's" thats what I say to people - pixel pitch (pixels per square inch) on a 65" 4K is the same (roughly) as a 32" 1080p - -hence my saying...

Sky is well known for poor quality - i wouldnt have it - even when I worked at sky and it was FREE I never took it out.... I use PC to watch stuff on my B8 or smart apps
 
delete me wrong post - cant get used to this quote multi-quote lol
 
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whats is BT 1886 in Gamma? I know of 702 (SDR) and 2020 (HDR) - but whats this..."piggy in the middle"..?

mine seems best on 1.9

also, when i had the samung before it also had this option but also 2020 which isnt available on the LG?
 
whats is BT 1886 in Gamma? I know of 702 (SDR) and 2020 (HDR) - but whats this..."piggy in the middle"..?

mine seems best on 1.9

also, when i had the samung before it also had this option but also 2020 which isnt available on the LG?

702 and 2020 are colour gamuts, not gamma profiles. BT.1886 is equivalent to 2.4 on an OLED according to what I've read on these forums.

Most stuff is mastered in 1886 or 2.2. Most people set 1886 for dark room viewing and 2.2 for daylight viewing.

However, it you're on the latest firmware for the B8 it has the black crush issue, where 1.9 is the only acceptable value due to a bug. Others crush blacks unless you tweak white balance.
 
702 and 2020 are colour gamuts, not gamma profiles. BT.1886 is equivalent to 2.4 on an OLED according to what I've read on these forums.

Most stuff is mastered in 1886 or 2.2. Most people set 1886 for dark room viewing and 2.2 for daylight viewing.

However, it you're on the latest firmware for the B8 it has the black crush issue, where 1.9 is the only acceptable value due to a bug. Others crush blacks unless you tweak white balance.

what are crushed blacks and how should i fix? is it TOO MUCH black? ive notice that a lot but took it as part of the 'OLED' experience

should I change firmware? back to previous one?
do engineer firmware have fixes for such issues? and if so , is there a "how to page"?

thanks
 
Wow that was a long reply! I’m talking about any HD v UHD program on Sky Q. To me whether I’m 7-8ft away or close up to my 55” screen I can’t see the 4 times better detail. So it could be as you say Sky just isn’t delivering the quality which is very frustrating as I’m paying extra for what exactly!
I find that using HDR effect makes a big difference to 4k output on sky,especially sports. Does need tinkering with but improves picture if used correctly. Also good for Netflix 4k if not in Dolby vision.
 
what are crushed blacks and how should i fix? is it TOO MUCH black? ive notice that a lot but took it as part of the 'OLED' experience

should I change firmware? back to previous one?
do engineer firmware have fixes for such issues? and if so , is there a "how to page"?

thanks
Yes. You loose all the details in near black scenes. Run the 'black clipping test' video on YouTube. You'll see only 17 onwards flash on gamma 1.9 on the latest firmware, whereas they should flash on all gamma options.

The fixes are to upgrade to the 05. Engineering versions, downgrade to 04.10.36 or tweak white balance to values posted earlier in the thread.

Or you can keep gamma at 1.9, but it makes things overly bright IMO.
 
Yes. You loose all the details in near black scenes. Run the 'black clipping test' video on YouTube. You'll see only 17 onwards flash on gamma 1.9 on the latest firmware, whereas they should flash on all gamma options.

The fixes are to upgrade to the 05. Engineering versions, downgrade to 04.10.36 or tweak white balance to values posted earlier in the thread.

Or you can keep gamma at 1.9, but it makes things overly bright IMO.

I have to agree with you as some stuff looks 'overly grey'-ish..? like im having it too bright, I will have to change firmware...how do do it?

thanks in advance
 
I have to agree with you as some stuff looks 'overly grey'-ish..? like im having it too bright, I will have to change firmware...how do do it?

thanks in advance
Download the SURE app on Android. It allows you to get to a Software Upgrade menu on the TV which accepts downgrades.
 
,,i also think ive sussed my TV and FRIDGE EMF issue - HDMI cable is 5M and runs alongside the Power to the 4-way surge protected gang from behind the TV along the whole edging then behind into the PC) - one woman in a similar situation changed the HDMIn cable and it sorted
 
Yes. You loose all the details in near black scenes. Run the 'black clipping test' video on YouTube. You'll see only 17 onwards flash on gamma 1.9 on the latest firmware, whereas they should flash on all gamma options.

The fixes are to upgrade to the 05. Engineering versions, downgrade to 04.10.36 or tweak white balance to values posted earlier in the thread.

Or you can keep gamma at 1.9, but it makes things overly bright IMO.


Do you know where I can find the 05 builds? Is there a thread on it?
 
whats is BT 1886 in Gamma? I know of 702 (SDR) and 2020 (HDR) - but whats this..."piggy in the middle"..?
mine seems best on 1.9

I wrote this couple of years ago: SDR Tone curve / gamma for beginners
(Note: see the note at the beginning of the post, how to see the pictures :) )

what are crushed blacks and how should i fix? is it TOO MUCH black? ive notice that a lot but took it as part of the 'OLED' experience
should I change firmware? back to previous one?

I have to agree with you as some stuff looks 'overly grey'-ish..? like im having it too bright, I will have to change firmware...how do do it?

Small tutorial.
 
Should anyone with an uncalibrated set on the .36 firmware (no black crush) mess with the 20 IRE settings?
 

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