Lyngdorf discussion

See my edit above. I was able to download a manual. It is here... Source/Add edit Source/Volume offset (dB)

See my edit above. I was able to download a manual. It is here... Source/Add edit Source/Volume offset (dB)
I tested now again and only did the level/calibration the first thing you do to get the right volym to start. When i got the strange sound i got a signal error when i did the calibration volym with firmware v5. I now tried at 4.2.8 like i have had before. I have the original xlr cable and another cheap xlr. I have because it was easier to come around furniture and so on when i combined them both to have a longer length and it always worked before.
Now i tried with only the original directly to the preamp with firmware 4.2.8. I didn't get a signal error. I then did the same with the other cheap cable and i got the signal error. With firmware v5 i just went foward with the signal error and did a full calibration. So iam very sure its the cheaper cable that is broken and it was why i got the high/bad sound before.

Thanks anyway🙂
 
I tested now again and only did the level/calibration the first thing you do to get the right volym to start. When i got the strange sound i got a signal error when i did the calibration volym with firmware v5. I now tried at 4.2.8 like i have had before. I have the original xlr cable and another cheap xlr. I have because it was easier to come around furniture and so on when i combined them both to have a longer length and it always worked before.
Now i tried with only the original directly to the preamp with firmware 4.2.8. I didn't get a signal error. I then did the same with the other cheap cable and i got the signal error. With firmware v5 i just went foward with the signal error and did a full calibration. So iam very sure its the cheaper cable that is broken and it was why i got the high/bad sound before.

Thanks anyway🙂
Glad you got it sorted! I was wondering if it was a mic issue but easier to change a cable!
As to you r other question, I dont think there is a reason to redo RP with version v5 unless you want to take advantage of the sub adjust “fix”.
 
Glad you got it sorted! I was wondering if it was a mic issue but easier to change a cable!
As to you r other question, I dont think there is a reason to redo RP with version v5 unless you want to take advantage of the sub adjust “fix”.
I agree! But you haven't had the sound move more to right side with the latest firmware like someone had here and the he had to redo the Rp and it fixed the problem for him? Also strange that all of the sudden my cheapest cable its faulty now when it had worked before.
 
I agree! But you haven't had the sound move more to right side with the latest firmware like someone had here and the he had to redo the Rp and it fixed the problem for him? Also strange that all of the sudden my cheapest cable its faulty now when it had worked before.
I think that the right sided issue is rare. At least, it seems to be from this forum and I personally have had no issue. FWIW, V5 with the sub-adjust fix made a big difference in my system. I don't know what I would do if I were you and already had my subs professionally calibrated.
 
I agree! But you haven't had the sound move more to right side with the latest firmware like someone had here and the he had to redo the Rp and it fixed the problem for him? Also strange that all of the sudden my cheapest cable its faulty now when it had worked before.
I did not experience that issue. The only reason I did a RP calibration after upgrading to v5 is to see if the sub adjust is fixed. I can confirm that it is fixed.
Yes it is strange that a cable all the sudden goes bad…have not had many cables fail in my experience, especially at home. But anything is possible.
 
I did not experience that issue. The only reason I did a RP calibration after upgrading to v5 is to see if the sub adjust is fixed. I can confirm that it is fixed.
Yes it is strange that a cable all the sudden goes bad…have not had many cables fail in my experience, especially at home. But anything is possible.
Okay! Well iam going to test with some music with firmware i have now 4.2.8 so i have a reference and then tries also on v5 and see if get the same with the sound to far to the right. And like i said i got my system professionally calibrated so i don't care for now about the sub adjust, only about the other bugs that should be fixed with the latest firmware otherwise if get the same problem with sound to far to the right side like some user had here i would revert to 4.2.8 version. But i will not do a new Rp for the moment.

Tested it now with v5 and i couldn't hear any strange with the sound. The voices were centered when listen to music like it should be. So i don't seem to have the problem with the sound of moving more to right, either like you. Seem to be more open and little bit higher overall. But not really sure, it was i while ago since i listened more critical and watch a movie, so mabey not.
 
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I’ve recently upgraded to the latest Firmware on my MP40 and since then the volume is really low. Before my average listening volume would be about -20/25 and now it’s -10 or below… should I re-run RP ?
 
On a different topic. I’m using Tidal Hi Fi to stream to my MP50, works pretty well and handy seeing the song details on the screen. As Tidal are merging their tiers next month I am wondering whether Tidal Connect will stream Hi - Res to my MP50? George
 
I’ve recently upgraded to the latest Firmware on my MP40 and since then the volume is really low. Before my average listening volume would be about -20/25 and now it’s -10 or below… should I re-run RP ?
Wait with that! Have you done a backup of your Rp? If you have done that try a factory reset and then restore from your backup. Look also that no setting ate changed first if you may by accident change anything in your audio or in source settings.Then do a factory reset if nothing is changed in the settings.
 
Wait with that! Have you done a backup of your Rp? If you have done that try a factory reset and then restore from your backup. Look also that no setting ate changed first if you may by accident change anything in your audio or in source settings.Then do a factory reset if nothing is changed in the settings.
Hi yes I have made a backup of my previous RP but that was with sub adjust not working properly. I’ve checked the settings and everything seems as it should be.

Will try on the weekend thanks
 
Hi yes I have made a backup of my previous RP but that was with sub adjust not working properly. I’ve checked the settings and everything seems as it should be.

Will try on the weekend thanks
Well if you want to use the sub adjust on v5 then yes you have to do a new Rp. But if you did a manual sub calibration then shouldn't have to do a new Rp. You could also do a hard reset. You need to turn of the power and pull the powercord for a couple sec. Don't remember exactly how long, but you can look it up and you can find it fast by a simple google search. Hope it works out for you.
 
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Hi

I am just in the awaiting the delivery of a 3400 TDAi, and I will be looking at adding the optional analogue input card to the amp in the future. Can the older version of the module without the phono stage be installed in a 3400 or does it have to be the newer version?
 
I have a the following equipment:
  • Bluesound X
  • Lyngdorf TDAI-2170 amplifier/pre
  • Lyngdorf SDA-2400 power amp

My problem is that I don't know which DAC or which combination of DACs to use. My gut feeling is to keep the digital signal intact as long as possible. That would mean sending the digital signal to the TDAI-2170 and also forward it digitally to the SDA-2400. Questions:
  • Is the Sabre chip in the Bluesound X superior to the TDAI-2170
  • Is the DAC in the SDA-2400 really good enough or should I connect the two Lyngdorfs with analog signal?
  • If I use digital, should I use coax or optical?
Anything else I should take into consideration? Thanks!
 
Hi

I am just in the awaiting the delivery of a 3400 TDAi, and I will be looking at adding the optional analogue input card to the amp in the future. Can the older version of the module without the phono stage be installed in a 3400 or does it have to be the newer version?
I’m pretty sure the 3400 was originally supplied with the older non-phono-stage analogue board when it first came out, so if you can get hold of one it should be fine, but probably best to check with a dealer.
 
I have a the following equipment:
  • Bluesound X
  • Lyngdorf TDAI-2170 amplifier/pre
  • Lyngdorf SDA-2400 power amp

My problem is that I don't know which DAC or which combination of DACs to use. My gut feeling is to keep the digital signal intact as long as possible. That would mean sending the digital signal to the TDAI-2170 and also forward it digitally to the SDA-2400. Questions:
  • Is the Sabre chip in the Bluesound X superior to the TDAI-2170
  • Is the DAC in the SDA-2400 really good enough or should I connect the two Lyngdorfs with analog signal?
  • If I use digital, should I use coax or optical?
Anything else I should take into consideration? Thanks!
The 2170 works in the digital domain, so you’re best off feeding it a digital signal. If you send analogue in then it will be immediately converted to digital anyway. Consequently it is definitely best to hook up the SDA digitally as well.

Coax is generally accepted to sound better than optical, not that I’ve ever been able to tell the difference. Optical is hit and miss with sample rates over 96khz if that matters to you.
 
Just after some advice on biamping my front left and right speakers - currently got a 7.2.6 setup with the 2 subs configured as stereo. Should I combine them in to 1 mono which would free me up an extra output to run high and low to my 2 front speakers?
 
Just after some advice on biamping my front left and right speakers - currently got a 7.2.6 setup with the 2 subs configured as stereo. Should I combine them in to 1 mono which would free me up an extra output to run high and low to my 2 front speakers?
IMHO, stereo subs would provide more sonic benefit (fancy for sound better) than mono subs with bi-amped speakers. YMMV.
 

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