Official Gardening Thread

I don't know where you are based but where I am (inside the M25) a sq mtr of turf is about £3.50. For that you will get good quality general purpose turf suitable for your garden. Don't waste your money on luxury turf containing fine grasses.

General purpose turf will be fine. It will have ryegrass in the mix so that's suitable for kids as it is hard wearing. Examine the turf if you can when it is delivered - it should not contain any weeds and be of good colour, bright green instead of dull. Ideally the soil underneath should be moist and should not break up when you lift it. When delivered the turf should be unrolled if possible and, when installed, watered everyday until roots take. You will know the roots gave taken when you attempt to lift a corner. If difficult it means the roots have found their way to the soil underneath. First cut on high setting after about 10 days. Keep everyone off it for about three weeks. If you need to walk on it for any reason before then use scaffolding boards or similar.

Get yourself a decent sprinkler and The Lawn Expert by DG Hessayon.
many thanks for the advise. I am outside M25 but not far off, start of Kent. Any specific grass/turf name yo suggest.

Cheers
 
Hmm...

As they say, "each to their own."

I'm a bit concerned that I didn't see them put any hardcore down first.

I don't think you can disguise the fact that it isn't real bricks, it's concrete.

I put these down about twelve years ago, in half a day. The traditional way, with hardcore, damp fine concrete mix and pointed them up the following day. It didn't cost a lot.

Three feature beds.

View attachment 1304541


View attachment 1304542

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And the long border.

View attachment 1304545

I did it to stop "border creep" when there was edging to be done. It meant I could just run over the bricks with my Flymo as the bricks finish flush with the lawn.

They've not been a problem, they are still intact and once they'd weathered in, they hardly noticed.
I could go over them with my jet-wash to clean them up, but I prefer the natural look.

View attachment 1304549
Nice, from your experience would you suggest this brick kind of featured border or just have soil and then put wooden chips or some kind of pebbles. Cheers
 
Nice, from your experience would you suggest this brick kind of featured border or just have soil and then put wooden chips or some kind of pebbles. Cheers

Thanks for the kind words.

It depends a lot on your personal taste.

I didn't want this edging to become a feature, it has mostly a practical use. It makes mowing the lawn quite simple. I used basic block paving bricks, I bought from one of the sheds.


I'm not into anything that will require perpetual maintenance, the bricks are just as they were when I put them down.

We don't have any annuals or hanging baskets, just perennials.
Gardening for me is just lawn mowing, a bit of weeding and pruning. Even just that in this small garden takes quite a bit of time.
 
many thanks for the advise. I am outside M25 but not far off, start of Kent. Any specific grass/turf name yo suggest.

Cheers


Can I suggest thay wherever you decide to buy your turf, if it's from a garden centre or somewhere like B&Q find out what day it gets delivered to them?
It arrives on pallets and then is left to dry out on them outside the store, it can be there for some days. Best to buy it on the day it's delivered if you can.
 
many thanks for the advise. I am outside M25 but not far off, start of Kent. Any specific grass/turf name yo suggest.

Cheers
I think the Rowlawn will be fine but I was just making the point that other general purpose turf, providing it's not rubbish, will also be suitable. Is there any turf suppliers near you where you could go along and have a look before you buy? If not, then opt for the Rowlan. You are choosing the turf and the builder is installing? Is that still the case?
 
Lawn aeration. Given up on the garden fork. The watering did soften the soil but there is too much stone below the surface to push it in more than a couple of inches.

Has anyone had experience if liquid surfactant/soil conditioners? Particularly the redneck solution, aka soapy water.
 
I have the same problem in a few areas in my garden and will stick to the garden fork, however this research paper on application of 4 commercial surfactants on 4 soil types might interest you. Just jump to the conclusion, where these products didn't have any beneficial impact.

 
Talking of lawns, I understand some of you, have been having problems with pests in them and members offered various advice on how to treat the problem. Here's an alternative method, rather than using chemicals;

 
"You were only supposed to blow the bloody cockroaches up!"
 
Thanks for the kind words.

It depends a lot on your personal taste.

I didn't want this edging to become a feature, it has mostly a practical use. It makes mowing the lawn quite simple. I used basic block paving bricks, I bought from one of the sheds.


I'm not into anything that will require perpetual maintenance, the bricks are just as they were when I put them down.

We don't have any annuals or hanging baskets, just perennials.
Gardening for me is just lawn mowing, a bit of weeding and pruning. Even just that in this small garden takes quite a bit of time.
Agree, something practical and less maintenance is the way to go.
 
I think the Rowlawn will be fine but I was just making the point that other general purpose turf, providing it's not rubbish, will also be suitable. Is there any turf suppliers near you where you could go along and have a look before you buy? If not, then opt for the Rowlan. You are choosing the turf and the builder is installing? Is that still the case?
thanks, as part of the house extension I had included garden as builder had mentioned that with all the material stocking etc the lawn will need to be redone. Turf+laying is all included in the price we had agreed, typically he allows options to choose material where needed for example turf in this case and I suggest which one based on my research and unless it is not very pricy and in his ballpark he usually is fine to go with what I choose/suggest. Gardening/landscaping is not his speciality hence checking with members from this forum on experiences. Have heard that there are some grass that is not suitable to play etc
 
Hi,

I am wondering if I could get some tips on lawn care? My lawn each year gets weeds, dandelions etc.. So in April I use weed and feed, it kills the weeds and makes my grass really really patchy and some bits brown straw like. So I use grass seed and try to fill in the gaps, there are loads and it looks okay and fills out, after seeds have finished growing until next year and I am left with weeds again. It feels like each time, I go 1 step forward and 2 steps back.

So this year after using weed and feed. I have mown the grass short, removed all weeds and aerated the lawn and put down lawn seeding soil and sown grass seed and rolled. I am currently watering twice a day until germination. Hopefully I will get decent grass again.

My question is, what can I do to avoid having to use weed and feed each year as that undoes my hard work and I am back to square one. Any tips? Do I use grass thickener or a fertiliser every few months etc.. that way I have strong grass growth and less room for weeds? I really want to avoid using weed and feed.

Thanks
 
Got to the garden centre today in my quest to fill out and brighten up the shrubbery. Due to social distancing it wasn't easy to get advice so I winged it a bit.

Home with 2 Azalea japonicas (red), 2 camelia red, 2 convolvulus cneorum white, a cistus sunset pink, and a lavender.

IMG_20200525_165235.jpg
 
thanks, as part of the house extension I had included garden as builder had mentioned that with all the material stocking etc the lawn will need to be redone. Turf+laying is all included in the price we had agreed, typically he allows options to choose material where needed for example turf in this case and I suggest which one based on my research and unless it is not very pricy and in his ballpark he usually is fine to go with what I choose/suggest. Gardening/landscaping is not his speciality hence checking with members from this forum on experiences. Have heard that there are some grass that is not suitable to play etc
The grass not suitable for children's play is what I referred to as "luxury turf". It won't stand up to children or pets or much traffic. Your turf selection, therefore, should compromise of a proportion of the tougher grass such as ryegrass.
 
I’m tempted to get the drill onto my lawn to make some holes. It’s rock solid, the fork barely goes in. Then some sand and top up with top soil.
 
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Hi,

I am wondering if I could get some tips on lawn care? My lawn each year gets weeds, dandelions etc.. So in April I use weed and feed, it kills the weeds and makes my grass really really patchy and some bits brown straw like. So I use grass seed and try to fill in the gaps, there are loads and it looks okay and fills out, after seeds have finished growing until next year and I am left with weeds again. It feels like each time, I go 1 step forward and 2 steps back.

So this year after using weed and feed. I have mown the grass short, removed all weeds and aerated the lawn and put down lawn seeding soil and sown grass seed and rolled. I am currently watering twice a day until germination. Hopefully I will get decent grass again.

My question is, what can I do to avoid having to use weed and feed each year as that undoes my hard work and I am back to square one. Any tips? Do I use grass thickener or a fertiliser every few months etc.. that way I have strong grass growth and less room for weeds? I really want to avoid using weed and feed.

Thanks
Top dressing is one of the best things you can do for your lawn.
 
Hi,

I am wondering if I could get some tips on lawn care? My lawn each year gets weeds, dandelions etc.. So in April I use weed and feed, it kills the weeds and makes my grass really really patchy and some bits brown straw like. So I use grass seed and try to fill in the gaps, there are loads and it looks okay and fills out, after seeds have finished growing until next year and I am left with weeds again. It feels like each time, I go 1 step forward and 2 steps back.

So this year after using weed and feed. I have mown the grass short, removed all weeds and aerated the lawn and put down lawn seeding soil and sown grass seed and rolled. I am currently watering twice a day until germination. Hopefully I will get decent grass again.

My question is, what can I do to avoid having to use weed and feed each year as that undoes my hard work and I am back to square one. Any tips? Do I use grass thickener or a fertiliser every few months etc.. that way I have strong grass growth and less room for weeds? I really want to avoid using weed and feed.

Thanks
Why do you want to stop using weed and feed?
Rule no 1 is never cut the grass too short. Rule no 2 is never let the grass get too long. Cutting too short will weaken the lawns ability to compete with weeds. So don't do that. Letting it get too long before cutting will mean the bottom of the grass leaves will be unable to photosynthesis and will turn yellow so when you do cut you will have a nice yellowish brown lawn. So don't do that either. What do you do to your grass during the months between Sep and Mar?
What weed and feed have you used? How did you apply it? How often do you cut during the growing season? What type of mower do you use to cut it? What type of weeds do you have? What other maintenance tasks do you perform besides weed and feed? Describe the process when you seed bare patches. Any pictures?
 
Got to the garden centre today in my quest to fill out and brighten up the shrubbery. Due to social distancing it wasn't easy to get advice so I winged it a bit.

Home with 2 Azalea japonicas (red), 2 camelia red, 2 convolvulus cneorum white, a cistus sunset pink, and a lavender.
Nice one. Due to my health condition I have still not started going out except to buy food items once in two weeks but now feel reasonably ok to go out. Will visit Garden centre in next couple of days and look for options. From my patio to garden the picture will look very much like the attached photos (not mine though). I need to buy 8-10 low height small plant/shrubs preferably evergreen . I plan to mix different ones (2 of each types so that one set can go to the left of the steps and one to the right) so that there are different shape/color. Any suggestion welcome.
Shrubs.JPG
Shrub 1.JPG
 
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Best to see what they have but some grasses would look good in that border.

I was looking for large shrubs so apart from the lavender, all mine have a height and spread of at least 1m.
 
Nice one. Due to my health condition I have still not started going out except to buy food items once in two weeks but now feel reasonably ok to go out. Will visit Garden centre in next couple of days and look for options. From my patio to garden the picture will look very much like the attached photos (not mine though). I need to buy 8-10 low height small plant/shrubs preferably evergreen . I plan to mix different ones (2 of each types so that one set can go to the left of the steps and one to the right) so that there are different shape/color. Any suggestion welcome.View attachment 1307594View attachment 1307609


You can't beat azaleas as a perennial shrub they need no maintenance, just make sure they get enough water. Unlike our several rhododendrons that need dead-heading.

P1040077.JPG


They can even work well as a hedge.

This started off over thirty years ago in a 4" pot in the "reduced to clear," box on a stall in Altrincham market and my wife managed to crack the stem, as she brought it home on the bus with the rest of her shopping. We repaired the stem with Sellotape and over the years I layered it many times.

P1040066.JPG



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Pretty much up to date, rockery Phlox has been weeded and the last of the bluebell foliage is in the bin which is pretty much full. Grass cut and a bit of other weeding done.

Today I got at the white wisteria on the gaarage pergola, It wants to grow laterally and I want it to grow at right-angles to the garage, so a bit of forcing and more wiring was requires to fill in a couple of gaps on the pergola. It's very virulent but quite submissive when young.

The canopy will soon fill in.

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This comes under, "just looking for something to do."


I'd had a problem with the low voltage 30w Blagdon spotlight on the side fence that used to shine on the waterfall, which is now part of the rockery.
I say a problem, it had actually stopped working. I traced the fault to somewhere in the cable that passes from the garage, under the path, through the former pool collar, and up under the base of the waterfall to the base of the fence. Power was going in, but not coming out the other end (after 34 years) I could have tried to pull the cable through the trunking and replace it. But I decided, the spotlight where it was was no longer necessary, so I moved it to the pergola on the garage and rewired it. It's now trained on the fountain. This spotlight, like the one behind the pagoda comes with four different filters, red, green, orange, blue, or you can leave it as white. I've opted for blue this time. It'll come on when I turn the fountain on from one of the four switches behind the lounge curtains, that control all the lights in the garden.




P1040229.JPG


P1040231.JPG
 
Pretty much up to date, rockery Phlox has been weeded and the last of the bluebell foliage is in the bin which is pretty much full. Grass cut and a bit of other weeding done.

Today I got at the white wisteria on the gaarage pergola, It wants to grow laterally and I want it to grow at right-angles to the garage, so a bit of forcing and more wiring was requires to fill in a couple of gaps on the pergola. It's very virulent but quite submissive when young.

The canopy will soon fill in.

View attachment 1307851


This comes under, "just looking for something to do."


I'd had a problem with the low voltage 30w Blagdon spotlight on the side fence that used to shine on the waterfall, which is now part of the rockery.
I say a problem, it had actually stopped working. I traced the fault to somewhere in the cable that passes from the garage, under the path, through the former pool collar, and up under the base of the waterfall to the base of the fence. Power was going in, but not coming out the other end (after 34 years) I could have tried to pull the cable through the trunking and replace it. But I decided, the spotlight where it was was no longer necessary, so I moved it to the pergola on the garage and rewired it. It's now trained on the fountain. This spotlight, like the one behind the pagoda comes with four different filters, red, green, orange, blue, or you can leave it as white. I've opted for blue this time. It'll come on when I turn the fountain on from one of the four switches behind the lounge curtains, that control all the lights in the garden.




View attachment 1307849

View attachment 1307850
You are gardener, electrician, carpenter all in one :)
 
You are gardener, electrician, carpenter all in one :)


Thanks for the kind words, but gardener I'm not.

Gardeners are people who "grow stuff," I don't, the closest thing I get to it is that I grow stuff on.
I'm just a "garden manager." I buy stuff decide what stays, what goes, what gets moved etc., (in conjuction with the "War Office").
I also like to think I'm reasonably good at garden design.

My DIY skills come from necessity in my youth, when if you wanted something done, you did it yourself, as you couldn't afford to pay someone to do it. So all the woodwork in the garden wasn't a problem to me as I'd "been there and done that," or had a good idea how to tackle it.
I'm reasonably handy with bricks, concrete, a trowel and mortar

Likewise, the electrical stuff in the garden might outface some. This is "mission control" in the garage.


Mains voltage lighting is restricted to PIRs and porch lights on the buildings, any exposed wiring is only 12v.

P1040232.JPG


Power, Water heater, Garage lights and Garden light have their own supply and minmi breaker.
The consumer unit is supplied through a quality RCCB, necessa for when I had the koi pool and I test it regularly.


P1030597.JPG



The shed and our tea-house have a different supply and their own consumer unit.
 
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Just wanted to say that this thread has been fantastic during lockdown, its a great escape and inspiration.

Absolutely.
Everyone has contributed something to this thread that has made me look at ways to improve my garden.
The goal now for my garden is to have the colours and planting of @Doghouse Riley, the hardscaping of @Wahreo, and the grass quality of @has2mow.

:D
 

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