Optoma UHD 51 / 51A 4k Projector Owners Thread

Sounds like a fault. My focus seems to be rock steady. I havent noticed any uniformity issues either. Maybe an issue with a lens element being loose or something.
I second that. Never had to adjust my focus once set. I also not noticed any uniformity issue.
One thing if the projector is sat too high or too low this could cause it to be Blurred at the top or bottom. If you are tilting it to get it to fill the screen.
Ian
 
Is anyone else bothered by the fact that the projector insists on always starting in source selection screen and I have to use the remote to select HDMI1 every time.

Once in a while it seems to identify my source in HDMI1 and switch over but I have not been able to figure out the pattern to do this consistently. I'm happy with the projector overall but this one thing is driving me nuts and Optoma is not helping with their support here, nor do they provide the update-files for UHD51 on their website so I'm a bit at loss here.
 
Is anyone else bothered by the fact that the projector insists on always starting in source selection screen and I have to use the remote to select HDMI1 every time.

Once in a while it seems to identify my source in HDMI1 and switch over but I have not been able to figure out the pattern to do this consistently. I'm happy with the projector overall but this one thing is driving me nuts and Optoma is not helping with their support here, nor do they provide the update-files for UHD51 on their website so I'm a bit at loss here.

Doesn't happen on mine. It always starts on HDMI1. I don't think I've pressed the source select button on the remote since I first set the projector up.
 
Mine "mostly" always fires up on HDMI1 but I make a point of switching on my AVR first so there's a signal present when the projector starts -try that.
 
Thanks for the suggestions, I have tried several combinations of starting the devices but nothing really seems to do the trick. I have tried started my AVR, then the AppleTV finally the projector, starting the ATV, the AVR and then the projector and so on. Nothing seems to be the solution
 
Likewise my 51A always starts on HDMI 1, but I have never used anything else since I tried a few videos off a USB stick when I first got it over 12 months back.
 
Is anyone else bothered by the fact that the projector insists on always starting in source selection screen and I have to use the remote to select HDMI2 every time.

Once in a while it seems to identify my source in HDMI2 and switch over but I have not been able to figure out the pattern to do this consistently. I'm happy with the projector overall but this one thing is driving me nuts and Optoma is not helping with their support here, nor do they provide the update-files for UHD51 on their website so I'm a bit at loss here.
i use a harmony remote and all my devices are conected to hdmi 2 on projector through a denon 2600h so i voice something, it just comes on and on the right denon Chanel. so it isnt really a issue for me with a amp setup and voice contrl through harmony hub. i have the uhd51 not the A version and i use google assistant for:

turn on and off xbox one
on off fire tv
on off heos
on and off pc
and i can also voice pause and play on most things like fire tv and xbox. only need to open up a specific episode but hopeing shield tv i get soon will comply.

i have had no issues except my ps4 which cant turn on via voice because sony ps4 doesnt let you. They havent even given a update to alow this so guessing its a hardware thing but honesty i use xbnox more than ps4 just cause the ps4 is so dam loud with fans.

im guessing most people buying a projector also by a decent sound system that includes a amp and runs everything through that amp so they never need to change hdmi source on projector. ofc a set default option is always a nice thing to have. personally when i got my projector i was overjoyed that it came with a back lit remote, even if i dont use it and i love 3d coming on automatically without the need to go into the menu like some claimed you had too.
i love the uhd51, and my projector, the only thing im not a fan off is the dlack boarders are more dark grey.

how ever when i first got my uhd51 i was using a fibre cable from a pc 5.1 system and i dont remeber it ever opening at sourse page. it always opened at hdmi one output.
 
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Ok sounds like I’man outlier here. Could it be a firmware issue, are you all at c09 or any c06 here?
 
says system 08
lan 09
mcu07
so im guessing 08
also i need to change one thing on my statement
im using hdmi 2 on my projector so its always opening and starting on hdmi 2. i guess it does that because i dont have anything pluged into hdmi 1. have you tried pluging into hdm2 and useing that for source. see if projector turns on to hdmi 2 all time?

in projector settings i also have hdmi edid set to 2.0. it may help no idea, long time since i had to change and read about it.
 
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Hello all

I need help...

I have the home theatre up and running, however I cannot get the Optoma UHD51 to project 4K via the Xbox One X I have. Every time I enable 4k in the Xbox the projector replies with no signal and often the Xbox says the project is not 4K capable.

Do you know of this issue and how I would correct?

I have tried forcing it to 4K UHD by enabling on my 4K TV then reconnecting to my projector. It plays a 4K movie through the Blue Ray player app, however when I stop the film i get a black screen and sound only ...
 
Hello all

I need help...

I have the home theatre up and running, however I cannot get the Optoma UHD51 to project 4K via the Xbox One X I have. Every time I enable 4k in the Xbox the projector replies with no signal and often the Xbox says the project is not 4K capable.

Do you know of this issue and how I would correct?

I have tried forcing it to 4K UHD by enabling on my 4K TV then reconnecting to my projector. It plays a 4K movie through the Blue Ray player app, however when I stop the film i get a black screen and sound only ...
First thing is it might be your HDMI cable. Second thing is I have Xbox one s and with a Denon 2600 amp I couldn't get my Xbox one s to work for 4k. I had to roll back firm ware to its (DENON 2600H) factory settings AND STOP UPDATES and it worked. Problem is you'll have lots of other little bugs on the amp as you like me would be stuck on old firmware to have a working Xbox one s. Personally I hope it's you HDMI cables.
 
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First thing is it might be your HDMI cable. Second thing is I have Xbox one s and with a Denon 2600 amp I couldn't get my Xbox one s to work for 4k. I had to roll back firm ware to its factory settings and it worked. Problem is you'll have lots of other little bugs on the amp as you like me would be stuck on old firmware to have a working Xbox one s. Personally I hope it's you HDMI cables.
I certainly don't think my Denon amp is the great work maker people say. It's great when it's working but to many gifts that interfere with normal viewing. Hdr disappearing most times I go into audio STTINGS and adjust. Sound formats not showing correctly Mon display when clicking info. So be prepared to put up with them if you have the same amp
 
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Hi all,

The gamma setting on my UHD51 is locked to "blackboard" and is greyed out so can't be changed. This has happened before and I had to do factory reset to sort it out.

Does anyone have any idea what causes this ?

Cheers
 
Hi all,

I couldn't get Alexa to work two years ago, and thought I'd have another crack.*

Elsewhere I've read that device-linking is broken.

I have a different problem: I can't register my UHD51A on the new devicecloud website as I don't have a 17 digit serial number.

I got mine in 2018 and it only has 11 digits. Anyone found a hack? 6 leading/trailing zeros doesn't seem to cut it.

Background: I registered it previously on the (older? original?) mydevices.optoma.com but wasn't able to get Alexa to work. That registration migrated (mydevice->devicecloud), but it wasn't working any better than on the old site so I went to delete it and add it again- that old trick. Perhaps my own silly fault for trying this? Crikey.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Regards
Buzz

Firmware: System C06 / LAN C09 / MCU C06 ... have C09 on a USB but don't think the upgrade is going to help with this issue.

* I did manage to use a clunky Creston app, and manually send some commands via telnet to turn it on and off -- both of those were hideous, and I didnt have the courage to teach Alexa to talk to telnet even though I found something on github that someone had hacked together.
 
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I just had a message come up on my screen telling me to clean or change the filter, as I have now done 300 hours viewing on it.

I pulled the filter holder out but there isn't a filter in it, are you supposed to buy one and fit one or is it an obsolete message from earlier similar designed projectors ?

Can I use any type of foam cut to fit or do they need to be a certain grade ?

I have just seen this in an online manual, I couldn't see it on the PDF that I originally downloaded.

Dust filters are only required/supplied in the selected regions with excessive dust.

So maybe they are not needed in the UK and it is only in desert or similar regions :confused:
 
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Looking to pick up the UHD51 this weekend, have found it at a decent price and just wondering if it still holds up in 2020? Anyone any opinions on it?
 
Hi all..... haven’t quite managed to get through all 13 pages but if anyone knows the answer please feel free. I’m finally about to install my UHD51A which I purchased last Xmas. Is there a recommended (motorised) screen for this which takes advantage of both its 4K and 3D output? I’m hoping for a screen diag max of 136” so budget is limited for the final piece in this large puzzle. Any recommendations are appreciated.
 
I just had a message come up on my screen telling me to clean or change the filter, as I have now done 300 hours viewing on it.

I pulled the filter holder out but there isn't a filter in it, are you supposed to buy one and fit one or is it an obsolete message from earlier similar designed projectors ?

Can I use any type of foam cut to fit or do they need to be a certain grade ?

I have just seen this in an online manual, I couldn't see it on the PDF that I originally downloaded.



So maybe they are not needed in the UK and it is only in desert or similar regions :confused:

I'd avoid putting anything in that cuts down the airflow. Ultimately that is what is keeping your bulb cool. It gets pretty dusty here in Australia at times, but I've not put anything into that tray and mine is going just fine for 2 years now.
 
Ok sounds like I’man outlier here. Could it be a firmware issue, are you all at c09 or any c06 here?

I'm at C06 and does not work with Alexa. The bottleneck seem to be that this old firmware won't pair with the new website at devicecloud.optoma.com ... I haven't quite had the courage to flash it yet as I am afraid to interrupt my wife while she is playing Witcher 3. She's super cereal about her monster murder.
 
I'd avoid putting anything in that cuts down the airflow. Ultimately that is what is keeping your bulb cool. It gets pretty dusty here in Australia at times, but I've not put anything into that tray and mine is going just fine for 2 years now.
Thanks for that, I did put a piece of cloth over the intake that I have previously used when building computers to keep dog hairs and the worst of the dust out where the intakes for the fans are that does not noticeably restrict the airflow, but after you saying you have had no problems then I will remove it.
 
I haven‘t seen many published settings for this projector on the forums, so does anyone think it needs much work over the default cinema/reference modes and the default hdr setting?

One thing I find with the Spears & Munsil Disc is a lot of white clipping with a 4000nit hdr signal, but reducing contrast really seems a big hit on overall pIcture quality. Is it just a case of accepting this as an issue with PJs and hdr tone mapping?
 
Updated to C09 last week.

4K HDR seem a bit fine-tuned.
RGB is working now on PC Windows 10
Game Mode working better now.

Still problems with HDR on Pc.

I know this is old, but it may help someone else.

These settings worked for me (see attached) when trying to use my UHD50X with Windows and an NVidia card. Otherwise I was getting the green tint or a black screen when enabling HDR.
 

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