Panasonic EX750 Owners Thread

It also passes the HDMI10+ to the TV "fine" from the Prime app. I say fine as the only show that anyone in the UK can get to work using HDR10+ on this TV and the fire cube or firestick is Sneaky Pete season 3 .

Hi Pete

Just wondering, is this still the case - HDR10+ basically still a complete non-event, even when using an external box like the Cube?

I'm looking again at my options for getting Disney+ as it's unlikely to ever appear as a native Panasonic app. The Cube seems to cover most bases, though others seem to have different advantages. Remarkably difficult to find one that covers everything. The Nvidia Shield could also be a contender if the Cube offers no real advantages to the native Panasonic app except a tiny amount of Atmos content.

Cheers

Rob
 
Hi Pete

Just wondering, is this still the case - HDR10+ basically still a complete non-event, even when using an external box like the Cube?

I'm looking again at my options for getting Disney+ as it's unlikely to ever appear as a native Panasonic app. The Cube seems to cover most bases, though others seem to have different advantages. Remarkably difficult to find one that covers everything. The Nvidia Shield could also be a contender if the Cube offers no real advantages to the native Panasonic app except a tiny amount of Atmos content.

Cheers

Rob
Hi Rob

Still not found any other HDR10+ titles on prime via the cube other than Sneaky Pete season 3. Im hoping some of the new season due next week will be in HDR10+ e.g. Bosch
Disney+ works well on the cube although for some reason doesnt play the Atmos. I will only keep Disney for 1 month as i have all the Marvel films anyway and nothing much else on there holds my interest.

Pete
 
I have it plugged into hdmi 1
preset = dynamic atm, all the same really just more washed out.
cable is the microsoft 1 included in xbox one x
advanced settings is greyed out on dynamic
xbox setting = colour depth 10bit
colour space pc rgb
HDMI hdr setting is on dynamic.
netflix im not sure cant tell the difference it just looks normal. top left corner says 2160p but doesnt mention hdr.
But as soon as I turn it hdr off the image looks amazing. Does this tv only have 1 true 4k hdr port or is it 2.
Do you have this washed out issue with anything other than netflix? I ask because the Netflix app on xbox forces HDR when you open the app, even when no HDR content is present. Hence it looks super washed out. If you watch a HDR blu ray I imagine it all looks fine? I just want to help you as you may think something is wrong when actually it's just the bad programming of the Netflix app. There is no work around for this other than disabling HDR in the xbox settings and manually turn it on when you want to watch something in HDR. Its a pain! I have my xbox one s set to non HDR and watch all my standard content on that, then if I want to have something watch online or on disc in full HDR I use my Scorpio which is set up with all the green ticks.
 
Hi guys I have a couple of questions.
1) HDR on my xbox x has washed out colours, if I turn HDR off on my xbox it's soo much better. Even if I change hdmi ports it still looks crap. Films look amazing tho.

I do my gaming on a PS4 Pro and I've also noticed that HDR looks pretty washed out on my 50 inch ex750. So much so that in certain games it looks almost foggy, like it's hard to see what's going on. I had that recently with Ghost Recon: Breakpoint and The Division 2.

I've been considering turning HDR off entirely.

Between that and the serious lack of apps, I'm starting to think about relegating this telly to the front room and getting something better for the mancave. The only thing about this one is the 3D, which I'm still kind of a fan of.

That said, I watched a film on my friend's LG OLED and was kind of relieved that it didn't blow my EX750 out of the water.
 
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I almost exclusively play HDR games on my PS4 Pro and EX750 50" and none of them looks washed out (I don't play your 2 games though)

While playing a HDR game, if you go back to the Home Menu without closing the game then go to Settings > Sound and Screen > Video Output Settings > Video Output Information, does your PS4 Pro report the following?

3840 x 2160 - 60 Hz
YUV422(HDR)

On the EX750 do you use the default settings in True Cinema mode for gaming or did you tweak something?
 
I almost exclusively play HDR games on my PS4 Pro and EX750 50" and none of them looks washed out (I don't play your 2 games though)

While playing a HDR game, if you go back to the Home Menu without closing the game then go to Settings > Sound and Screen > Video Output Settings > Video Output Information, does your PS4 Pro report the following?

3840 x 2160 - 60 Hz
YUV422(HDR)

On the EX750 do you use the default settings in True Cinema mode for gaming or did you tweak something?

I'll need to check later today re the video output info. But when gaming I use the Dynamic mode. I'm getting used to True Cinema for films/TV but for gaming I'm still on that Dynamic setting.
 
Just to be sure, I just checked Battlefield V in Dynamic mode and it is really terrible, I wouldn't say the picture is specifically washed out, it's just terrible overall.

It's so inaccurate, the higher peak brightness is at the expense of anything else, especially color accuracy.
Even though there is no color temperature standard for gaming, I believe that anything colder than "warm 1" should be avoided.

And I'm pretty sure the dynamic mode doesn't follow the standard HDR PQ curve.

The dynamic mode is only meant to impress people in shops with dozens of TVs in competition under strong artificial light.
 
Just to be sure, I just checked Battlefield V in Dynamic mode and it is really terrible, I wouldn't say the picture is specifically washed out, it's just terrible overall.

I've managed to ween myself off of Dynamic for TV and movies. I'm not quite ready to try that for gaming yet. Especially as I see True Cinema as being a bit washed out compared to Dynamic because of the black parts of the screen. They seem a little grey in comparison.
 
Any reason why dynamic Range remaster does not work in HDR content working on all non hdr?
 
I have it plugged into hdmi 1
preset = dynamic atm, all the same really just more washed out.
cable is the microsoft 1 included in xbox one x
advanced settings is greyed out on dynamic
xbox setting = colour depth 10bit
colour space pc rgb
HDMI hdr setting is on dynamic.
netflix im not sure cant tell the difference it just looks normal. top left corner says 2160p but doesnt mention hdr.
But as soon as I turn it hdr off the image looks amazing. Does this tv only have 1 true 4k hdr port or is it 2.

Hey @wipeoutboy. (My apologies if this becomes a bit of prattling on, but will try to share my experiences & best options (so far at least) with my Xbox One X & the Panny EX750B if it's of any help for you to improve your experience :).)

Firstly, you really want to move away from the "dynamic" viewing mode as that really won't be helping your cause at all. (As you've noted yourself the advanced options are greyed out for a start & ultimately without serious adjustment (with what's available that you can still adjust) it's just far too bright, cool, & completely over saturated. I'm not surprised at all that your Xbox looks utterly washed out using that dynamic viewing mode preset bud :(!!! Adjusting that setting alone will certainly improve the washed out colours but go too far to the opposite end of the available choices (i.e. true cinema) & it ends up being too warm, & far too much red/yellow for gaming.

For example, for ordinary viewing of movies, TV shows, etc. with my other connected devices (or just the TV's native 4K Netflix/Prime Video apps which are better than the Xbox apps BTW), I usually have my EX750 set to True Cinema, with either the warm 1 or 2 presets as required. However, not surprisingly I found the True Cinema mode & even the "warm" presets just that for the Xbox interface in general & the games themselves, "too warm" ;). Even tweaking the white balance to adjust the basics, R, G or B individually had little effect without getting quite drastic. But, of course, the more you make larger adjustments to one spectrum it then in turn starts to have more drastic effects on the others too & you just end up chasing your own tail. Getting more involved with the advanced settings didn't really help the Xbox or gaming either. Ultimately, the Xbox & games in particular benefit from a slightly "cooler" setting in general to the settings that you'd ordinarily use for your "home cinema" such as Netflix, Kodi movies, etc. (However, dynamic is just too far the opposite way ;).)

Otherwise, I've found the Cinema viewing mode on the TV to be far more agreeable with the Xbox (in conjunction with the normal colour temperature preset), although admittedly I really do tend to just use mine for gaming alone. (Our EX750's have the 4K Netflix/Prime Video apps natively (with HDR) anyway, so I just use those & obviously they have their own (VOD) display settings/config that are remembered on the TV itself separate to those you may have set up for your individual HDMI inputs. (Not sure if the Xbox Netflix app even properly supports HDR (yet) does it? As some have noted, it outputs everything in HDR which just looks awful. (Use the TV's Netflix app if your circumstances allow. Ordinarily, I absolutely insist on a hard line/ethernet connection for any of my devices that are streaming etc. Having said that, the EX750 has a very good integrated Wi-Fi NIC & it actually does a great job with 5 GHz if you're within a decent range of your Wi-Fi router/access point if that's why you're reluctant to use the TV's app?.) I also use a separate Android media player for the home theater aspect of locally stored media that is ideally configured with True cinema & my preferred settings for Kodi, movies etc.) Obviously, this is all completely subjective & we all have our own preferences, hardware or ways of doing things. Some things I've included purely for the purposes of example or for comparison, or if it might simply point you in the right general direction to improve your current Xbox dilemma :). You can just disregard what clearly isn't applicable to you & hopefully just pick out what could be relevant or helpful to improve the final display from your Xbox :).

Additionally, if you've configured the Xbox itself to use full range RGB colour space, have you manually configured that on the TV for the HDMI input your Xbox uses too, or just left that set to auto? (I.e. try setting the TV's HDMI RGB range to full for the Xbox HDMI input to specifically match them up. It's not unknown for "auto" to "not auto" so to speak lol ;). If those settings are mismatched, it could also cause your games to look washed out/crushed, or otherwise utterly "bluergh" using other viewing modes too. (Using that dynamic preset will still remain your primary issue IMHO, however.)

Personally, I still use limited range RGB with my Xbox & TV despite our Panny's having the specific option for either limited, or full range. (Whether my specific AVR plays a part or not I'm not sure but the limited range just seems to look a little better with the Xbox & EX750.) Certainly, my games in HDR immediately seemed to look all the better for it to me, both blacks & whites seemed more natural & I actually found it easier to configure/calibrate the Xbox display using the built in calibration tool too, (I struggled to get a solid calibration using full range). I was originally set to full range at both ends but in certain FPS games as an example, I sometimes struggled to pick up lurking enemies in particular lighting, backgrounds, blah, blah. Blacks often just did not look as intended or they could look plain crushed. I made the swap & quite quickly began to pick up details I had previously been missing or struggling with. (Give it a try, see what you think after a direct comparison. Nothing lost if you feel full range is better, just swap both devices back again, it takes seconds.)

If it's of additional help these are the main sets used on the Xbox & TV. (Obviously 2 different panels can vary, so even if you use them as a base then tweak from there, it may hopefully be a start :).)

Colour depth - 36 bits per pixel - 12 bit, (currently testing vs 30 BPP - 10 bit). My AVR may play a part there too, I seem to recall at one point this setting not permitting higher than 30 bits per pixel (10 bit). Try setting the highest available after you've switched Xbox/TV to limited range RGB & see how it looks to you.
Allow YCC 4:2:2. (Could help more with Netflix & the HT features you may be using your Xbox for.)
Allow HDR10. (I list this under the full assumption you do in fact have it set already lol ;)!! However, just in case, some do miss this setting occasionally & it could explain why your symptoms seem particularly bad if accidentally missed, that's all ;).)

Lastly, if it's of any further help to you. My settings on the TV for my Xbox are...

(Respectively for all, SDR / HDR.)

Viewing mode
- Cinema / Cinema
Backlight - 28 - 30 / 100
Contrast - 85 - 90 (game dependant) / 80
Brightness - 0 or +1 (game dependant) / 0
Colour - 55 - 57 (game dependant) / 52 - 55
Tint - 0 / 0
Sharpness - 0 / 0
Colour temp - Normal / Normal
Vivid colour
- off / off
Colour remaster - off / off
Reversal film effect - greyed out with game mode
Adaptive backlight - off or min / mid
Ambient sensor - off / off
Noise reduction - off / off
MPEG remaster - off / off
Resolution remaster - off / off
Dynamic range remaster - off / off (greyed out)
Intelligent frame creation - off / off ( greyed out)
Clear motion - off / off

Advanced settings
Contrast control
- Usually off / off. (But, have been experimenting with auto for this for some SDR games lately & some do definitely benefit from it.)
HDR brightness enhancer - on (usually, & as applicable)

Colour gamut - Rec.709 SDR / Rec.2020 HDR. (Double check your TV is truly auto adjusting between these for SDR & HDR sources respectively & that you haven't accidentally hard set this to HLG or PQ when Rec.709 should apply, for example. I also did some experimenting by hard setting the TV display to native for SDR games instead of Rec.709. Again, some certainly benefited with colours being significantly more vibrant without any side effects in other areas. I'd suggest going with Rec.709 initially & configuring that as close as you are happy with across the board, then experiment with Rec.709 vs native later on too. See what you think of it yourself :).)

White balance
R-Gain
- 0 / +3
G-Gain - -2 / -3
B-Gain - -1 / +1

All other white balance settings are at their defaults & tweak these after adjusting the main colour slider.
(These Xbox numbers, for examples sake, are completely different for my typical movies/media "home cinema" type settings for other devices/inputs that are based around true cinema & warm 1/2. The Xbox just seems to benefit from a cooler setting, at least for the general interface & gaming. However, dynamic is too far the opposite way completely as you've discovered & it's intended more for brightly kit showrooms than general home use.)

Colour management - all at defaults for SDR & HDR
Gamma - 2.4 / 2.2

Option settings
Game mode
- on / on
HDMI content type - auto / auto. (Photos is disabled under the auto detail setting options.)
HDMI EOTF - Auto. (Double check that auto is definitely set there & that you haven't inadvertently hard set PQ or HLG ;) ). If functioning correctly the TV should ordinarily use traditional gamma & only auto switch up to PQ for HDR content from your Xbox. (Use the info button on your TV remote to verify the current output is matching the intended source.)
HDMI RGB range - Limited is currently hard set both ends for me at this time, (as previously covered above.) I'll probably experiment with this again at some point too, however, lol :).

Setup options
, (Panny TV main menu)
HDMI auto setting - Mode 2 for my Xbox & all other devices, & usually applies in most cases.
HDMI HDR Setting - Static. I have tried experimenting with this vs dynamic across all of my devices that support standard HDR10 & as would be expected, I can't discern any difference at all between the two options. (At this time only a small handful of Blu-ray players/apps actually support HDR 10+ that can make full use of the dynamic HDR metadata, otherwise, Dolby Vision also uses dynamic metadata too. Standard HDR10 just uses static HDR only). Technically, by leaving it set to dynamic the TV should just default down to the associated metadata of any standard HDR10 source content. However, if you're currently experiencing issues it may be more beneficial for you to simply use the established settings for the standards your hardware is known to support & just leave it set to static. (If nothing else, to minimise the chances of some weird glitch or errors being introduced by selecting an option/setting that your Xbox just can't use. Neither can your TV unless you also own other devices supporting Dolby Vision or one of the newer HDR10+ Blu-ray players capable of conveying the dynamic HDR10+ metadata, and/or actual DV/HDR10+ source media that the TV's built in media player can decode.)

Hope that's of some help to you :)? (Let us know how you get on, if things are finally heading in the right direction, or if you still can't seem to get any improvement.)

Finger's crossed :).
 
Just to be sure, I just checked Battlefield V in Dynamic mode and it is really terrible, I wouldn't say the picture is specifically washed out, it's just terrible overall.

It's so inaccurate, the higher peak brightness is at the expense of anything else, especially color accuracy.
Even though there is no color temperature standard for gaming, I believe that anything colder than "warm 1" should be avoided.

And I'm pretty sure the dynamic mode doesn't follow the standard HDR PQ curve.

The dynamic mode is only meant to impress people in shops with dozens of TVs in competition under strong artificial light.

I completely agree bud, the dynamic viewing mode preset just is not intended for general home use at all ;)!! Not to mention, many user definable options/settings for improving or fine tuning the display aren't available & they're greyed out anyway.

Obviously, the Xbox & PS platforms in general are bound to differ in certain areas. After some considerable testing/comparison I've found that the "normal" colour temperature preset definitely sits a little better (with the Xbox One X at least) than warm 1, for example. (Cool 2 or 1, however, are definitely that lol, far too cool ;).)

I do my gaming on a PS4 Pro and I've also noticed that HDR looks pretty washed out on my 50 inch ex750. So much so that in certain games it looks almost foggy, like it's hard to see what's going on. I had that recently with Ghost Recon: Breakpoint and The Division 2.

I've been considering turning HDR off entirely.

Between that and the serious lack of apps, I'm starting to think about relegating this telly to the front room and getting something better for the mancave. The only thing about this one is the 3D, which I'm still kind of a fan of.

That said, I watched a film on my friend's LG OLED and was kind of relieved that it didn't blow my EX750 out of the water.

As @lebellium has just explained to you, & as I've also just explained to @wipeoutboy regarding his washed out display with his Xbox too; the dynamic viewing mode preset just is not intended for home use at all, let alone getting a decent display for gaming. (Many of the settings that allow you to make finer adjustments to suit are also greyed out which is obviously going to drastically affect your available options.)

Why are you completely hung up on needing the dynamic viewing mode for gaming anyway? If you need some additional brightness and/or vibrance this can still be achieved using, for example, the cinema viewing mode or even the normal viewing mode whilst still allowing you to make meaningful & additional advanced adjustments to get gour display closer to how you'd like it to be that you just don't have available using the dynamic viewing mode!! The HDR brightness enhancer, automatic contrast control, the use of the adaptive backlight control can have a significant effect under certain conditions, & some also use the "clear motion" option too thinking it will improve the final image not realising that too darkens the image. Even simply increasing the backlight (or the main brightness too if absolutely required), can all still be used to good effect with the cinema or normal modes without completely washing out the final image, or leaving you cut off at the knees for what is actually available for you to adjust as desired for the image you're actually after :).

Have a read through what I just posted up for @wipeoutboy & give the general base settings a trial, while making specific adjustments for your PS4 Pro as you go.

You'll undoubtedly start to see some incredible differences quite quickly compared to the dynamic mode :). Then continue to fine tune from there on out. Although, once you've made that initial switch from dynamic to cinema or even the normal mode, small steps ;).

As with @wipeoutboy , I hope you start to see some early progress & you may even quickly alter your plans to swap out the TV for your man cave ;).

Keep us updated. Once you're actually closer to something you're happy with obviously others may also have additional tips & tricks for you to try specific to the PS4 Pro & the EX750 :).
 
Thanks, Wolf.

I think the reason I've been hung up on it is that I dual screen a lot. I've got a PC in the same room as the PS4. On the PC all the colours are bright and vibrant where as, on defaults, the TV looks dull compared. Nothing really pops.
 
Thanks, Wolf.

I think the reason I've been hung up on it is that I dual screen a lot. I've got a PC in the same room as the PS4. On the PC all the colours are bright and vibrant where as, on defaults, the TV looks dull compared. Nothing really pops.

Yeh, that's a common issue these days & using multiple devices side by side like that can reprogram the brain into thinking the easily/highly customisable, & often overly compensated PC displays are normal, but then your TV gradually becomes way off with no life or vibrance left to it anymore with other devices! It's actually the other way around in most cases & many tend to set the overall colour/contrast/luminance/saturation of their PCs far, far too high ;).

Obviously with a PC you can get into the display settings & very easily make all sorts of adjustments that just aren't available on consoles or they're far harder to directly replicate with the TV's settings themselves with another device like a console. In direct comparison, that in turn can then make our TV's that aren't actually too bad on the default settings seem as if something isn't right or end up using all sorts of freaky settings trying to make other devices connected to the TV look the same as the PC as well ;)!! (I have 1 mini PC permanently connected (via an AVR) & I'm also sometimes testing new/beta mini PC's too. Multiple mini PC's having such comprehensive display options are certainly useful with so many devices being connected through a single HDMI input on the TV as well but I'm definitely mindful of over correcting the PC displays to avoid similar circumstances to those you've found yourself in.

Your best option is to dull the PC back down a little again ;)!! Not to the point where your PC then looks awful obviously, just down to the point where your brain isn't telling you that the "dynamic" mode on the TV is actually "normal" for your console to match your PC, (obviously it isn't by far lol) ;). It may take a few days to a week for your brain to readjust again but it should happen pretty quickly if you use both devices regularly.

As an interim, something else you could try is switching to "native" instead of rec.709 on the TV for SDR games/media with your PS4.

Still set your TV to the "cinema" viewing mode & use the "normal" colour temperature as a rough baseline first, & you'll still want them for HDR anyway. Then go ahead & adjust the usual settings to a point where you're roughly happy or just use the backlight/contrast/colour settings I posted for wipeoutboy above, then switch the TV over to native & see what you think. (I tested it for a while with the Xbox for certain SDR sports games like golf, cricket, etc. that seemed a bit dull to me & it actually worked quite well for them. But, go in other directions like Doom (2016), purely as an example, & it brings a whole new meaning to the term seeing red lol ;). Many "flashy" games are just a little too rich with native as well.) Nevertheless, it may seem more acceptable to the current programming of your brain so to speak, at least until you can see if you're able to adjust accordingly ;). (It should still do it all automatically, but just double check that the TV is still auto switching between native & Rec.2020 for SDR & HDR respectively, although that's a difference that still shouldn't be visually hard to miss.)

It might be worth a go, just don't forget you made such a change in case you make additional changes further down the road such as connecting other devices to the TV etc. :). Setting native would ultimately be best as a temporary option though, or just for particular games perhaps.

I can certainly understand you must have one of those "rock & a hard place" feelings with this problem right now lol. Hope you're able to find some middle ground somewhere :).
 
Yeh, that's a common issue these days & using multiple devices side by side like that can reprogram the brain into thinking the easily/highly customisable, & often overly compensated PC displays are normal, but then your TV gradually becomes way off with no life or vibrance left to it anymore with other devices! It's actually the other way around in most cases & many tend to set the overall colour/contrast/luminance/saturation of their PCs far, far too high ;).

Obviously with a PC you can get into the display settings & very easily make all sorts of adjustments that just aren't available on consoles or they're far harder to directly replicate with the TV's settings themselves with another device like a console. In direct comparison, that in turn can then make our TV's that aren't actually too bad on the default settings seem as if something isn't right or end up using all sorts of freaky settings trying to make other devices connected to the TV look the same as the PC as well ;)!! (I have 1 mini PC permanently connected (via an AVR) & I'm also sometimes testing new/beta mini PC's too. Multiple mini PC's having such comprehensive display options are certainly useful with so many devices being connected through a single HDMI input on the TV as well but I'm definitely mindful of over correcting the PC displays to avoid similar circumstances to those you've found yourself in.

Your best option is to dull the PC back down a little again ;)!! Not to the point where your PC then looks awful obviously, just down to the point where your brain isn't telling you that the "dynamic" mode on the TV is actually "normal" for your console to match your PC, (obviously it isn't by far lol) ;). It may take a few days to a week for your brain to readjust again but it should happen pretty quickly if you use both devices regularly.

As an interim, something else you could try is switching to "native" instead of rec.709 on the TV for SDR games/media with your PS4.

Still set your TV to the "cinema" viewing mode & use the "normal" colour temperature as a rough baseline first, & you'll still want them for HDR anyway. Then go ahead & adjust the usual settings to a point where you're roughly happy or just use the backlight/contrast/colour settings I posted for wipeoutboy above, then switch the TV over to native & see what you think. (I tested it for a while with the Xbox for certain SDR sports games like golf, cricket, etc. that seemed a bit dull to me & it actually worked quite well for them. But, go in other directions like Doom (2016), purely as an example, & it brings a whole new meaning to the term seeing red lol ;). Many "flashy" games are just a little too rich with native as well.) Nevertheless, it may seem more acceptable to the current programming of your brain so to speak, at least until you can see if you're able to adjust accordingly ;). (It should still do it all automatically, but just double check that the TV is still auto switching between native & Rec.2020 for SDR & HDR respectively, although that's a difference that still shouldn't be visually hard to miss.)

It might be worth a go, just don't forget you made such a change in case you make additional changes further down the road such as connecting other devices to the TV etc. :). Setting native would ultimately be best as a temporary option though, or just for particular games perhaps.

I can certainly understand you must have one of those "rock & a hard place" feelings with this problem right now lol. Hope you're able to find some middle ground somewhere :).
Loving the true cinema mode now
 
Loving the true cinema mode now

Good, good :). It does work well for movies, (as intended obviously lol) ;).

You may also like to see if you prefer the warm 1 or warm 2 colour temperature setting in conjunction with true cinema. However, I often use either one as required but otherwise leave everything else as I've already set it.

This short video is also a very useful baseline indeed if the EX750 is new to you or you've only just started experimenting with what you can do with the settings. Obviously, you can tweak/adjust your settings to your specific preferences over time too. I certainly found it incredibly useful when I first got the EX750 to get me started & there wasn't as much user information shared at the time as the huge amounts available now. (I've made some of my own adjustments along the way of course, but they're still generally based around the original settings from this video :).) Hope it helps too, here you go.....

 
What do you mean with "overkill"?

Warm 2 is the closest preset to the industry standard D65 white point / 6500K color temperature.
That's how movie production is done.

Therefore when you watch a series or a movie you should use it, to be sure to watch it as the director intended it to be.
 
I think warm 2 is slightly overkill.

What do you mean with "overkill"?

Warm 2 is the closest preset to the industry standard D65 white point / 6500K color temperature.
That's how movie production is done.

Therefore when you watch a series or a movie you should use it, to be sure to watch it as the director intended it to be.

While the "mark 1 human eyeball" has never received an upgrade in its incredibly long working lifetime, they're not yet produced to a 100% guaranteed industry standard either lol ;).

We all see slightly differently & each have our individual preferences too :).

90%+ of the time I prefer Warm 2 for movies myself, but the odd source here & there does benefit from being knocked down to warm 1 on my panel too on occasion :).

Variables, it's always the bloody variables lol ;).
 
Just a quick question for you calibration guys. When you're doing all that stuff, is the aim to get the screen to mimic colours to exactly what the eye sees in real life? Or is the movie standard more colourful/brighter etc?
 
Good, good :). It does work well for movies, (as intended obviously lol) ;).

You may also like to see if you prefer the warm 1 or warm 2 colour temperature setting in conjunction with true cinema. However, I often use either one as required but otherwise leave everything else as I've already set it.

This short video is also a very useful baseline indeed if the EX750 is new to you or you've only just started experimenting with what you can do with the settings. Obviously, you can tweak/adjust your settings to your specific preferences over time too. I certainly found it incredibly useful when I first got the EX750 to get me started & there wasn't as much user information shared at the time as the huge amounts available now. (I've made some of my own adjustments along the way of course, but they're still generally based around the original settings from this video :).) Hope it helps too, here you go.....


The reason warm1 looks better at times is because it has its blue at a higher level closer to D65.
However, preset warm1 is at something like 7000 k or greater, whereas warm 2 is under 6500k by a long way.
What Steve did was bring white point to close to D65. At this point, colours come into line fairly well.
I've set mine to that white point too.
Because it's correct and what programmes and movies are graded to, it's where I think we all should be.
However, his setting of brightness to -1 is incorrect on all patterns I've used for my tv. 0 is spot on!
Gamma is a problem. He says 2.5 on the tv is 2.4 in reality. On my set 2.5 is indeed around 2.4 measured. It skews 90% gamma though. But in real world viewing, it is a tad too dark and is tending to crush low shadows to black.
So I have Cinema mode set as per Steve Withers with 2.5 gamma and brightness at 0. The colours and realism are great. But I have issues with the blue greys at times - I'm learning to live with that.
That's fine for tv.
And for movies via my br player I am using True Cinema at 2.4 gamma, red gain up to +4 and Blue gain to +8, which is pretty much at the same white point as the Cinema setting. Backlight to 20 - giving D65 at 120 nits.
HDR is different - to get the same white point I have red gain at +3 and blue at +2.
I am also using sharpness at 30 in TC as it seems to keep colours more stable for whatever obscure reason.
If people try this, they will probably find they have the best of both worlds, the best of warm1 and warm 2 :0) No need to flick between them.
 
Just a quick question for you calibration guys. When you're doing all that stuff, is the aim to get the screen to mimic colours to exactly what the eye sees in real life? Or is the movie standard more colourful/brighter etc?
If you watch real life docs and the news etc. these tend to be filmed 'as is'. However, there are real life shows, even gardening shows, where he director has altered contrast, colours and white balance, so are never going to look 'real'. Most movies have a lot of artistic license being used at many levels, and that's intentional.
Brightness cannot match the level of daylight, so daylight levels of brightness are not captured on tv broadcasts. HDR is trying to approach that level of realism.
You can make your set look realistic in terms of colour contrast and saturation, but your eyes could not cope with sunlight levels of luminance coming from a 65 inch box in your living room for too long.
Set your white at D65 and everything you see will be close to how it should be. Sometimes like looking through a window; sometimes like looking at an impression of reality.
But D65 white is where you can be assured of having the image close to where it should be.
D65 is not 'white' - it is the colour of light on an overcast sunny day at noon. It was selected as a standard. It has colour - specific levels of blue green and red. It's a very average and arbitrary thing. But it's what is used throughout the world.
To some it looks warm, to others cold. Some see more blue, others more red. Age changes perception. Watch a different setting and your brain will get used to it, then flip to another and it will seem 'wrong'.
D65 is the right choice, whatever your preference, because that's what belies your colour settings and is what is used all over the world.
Me, I like old black and white movies, and sometimes I prefer them to look very warm as they would have been seen in the old cinemas. If I then flick to D65, they look artificially bluer and unnatural. Give it a few minutes and my eyes start to adjust. But it still seems artificial. But with coloured content, D65 usually looks best. And yet sometimes, the default True Cinema greyscale works well for movies, despite being way off spec, too green and way down on blue.
The tv's colours are quite good, if the white is correct. But out of the box, none of the presets is near D65.
See my post above to get to D65. Get that then judge your colour, and you'll have a reference point. You can then trial other settings knowing you can get back to where it should be correct.
 
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What do you mean with "overkill"?

Warm 2 is the closest preset to the industry standard D65 white point / 6500K color temperature.
That's how movie production is done.

Therefore when you watch a series or a movie you should use it, to be sure to watch it as the director intended it to be.
I would contest that.
My measurements put warm 2 at around 6100 and warm1 at around 7200k
However, given the xy coordinates, there is a case for warm1 being closer because its blue is only a tad over whereas red is way under. However, warm2 is way under blue but its red isn't as close to spec as the blue is in warm1. I would say both are way off, but warm1 is closer. But because it is the blue that is closer then it does not play as well in real world viewing because the whites are too stark. Warm1 skews colour more because of the lack of red.
The colour temp point is closer in warm 2, but that does not take into account the specific mix of rgb that makes d65 white.
The correct d65 is somewhere in the middle at 6504 k.
Take default True Cinema and put red gain to +4 and blue gain to +8 and you are in the right ball park give or take 20k or so. But if your screen is as uneven in uniformity as mine, you could get 6450 to 6550 depending on where you place your sensor.
But I agree that if you have this tv warm2 will give the most accurate picture out of the box.
 

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