I have it plugged into hdmi 1
preset = dynamic atm, all the same really just more washed out.
cable is the microsoft 1 included in xbox one x
advanced settings is greyed out on dynamic
xbox setting = colour depth 10bit
colour space pc rgb
HDMI hdr setting is on dynamic.
netflix im not sure cant tell the difference it just looks normal. top left corner says 2160p but doesnt mention hdr.
But as soon as I turn it hdr off the image looks amazing. Does this tv only have 1 true 4k hdr port or is it 2.
Hey
@wipeoutboy. (My apologies if this becomes a bit of prattling on, but will try to share my experiences & best options (so far at least) with my Xbox One X & the Panny EX750B if it's of any help for you to improve your experience
.)
Firstly, you
really want to move away from the "
dynamic" viewing mode as that really won't be helping your cause at all. (As you've noted yourself the advanced options are greyed out for a start & ultimately without serious adjustment (with what's available that you can still adjust) it's just far too bright, cool, & completely over saturated. I'm not surprised at all that your Xbox looks utterly washed out using that dynamic viewing mode preset bud
!!! Adjusting that setting alone will certainly improve the washed out colours but go too far to the opposite end of the available choices (i.e. true cinema) & it ends up being too warm, & far too much red/yellow for gaming.
For example, for ordinary viewing of movies, TV shows, etc. with my other connected devices (or just the TV's native 4K Netflix/Prime Video apps which are better than the Xbox apps BTW), I usually have my EX750 set to True Cinema, with either the warm 1 or 2 presets as required. However, not surprisingly I found the True Cinema mode & even the "warm" presets just that for the Xbox interface in general & the games themselves, "too warm"
. Even tweaking the white balance to adjust the basics, R, G or B individually had little effect without getting quite drastic. But, of course, the more you make larger adjustments to one spectrum it then in turn starts to have more drastic effects on the others too & you just end up chasing your own tail. Getting more involved with the advanced settings didn't really help the Xbox or gaming either. Ultimately, the Xbox & games in particular benefit from a slightly "cooler" setting in general to the settings that you'd ordinarily use for your "home cinema" such as Netflix, Kodi movies, etc. (However, dynamic is just too far the opposite way
.)
Otherwise, I've found the
Cinema viewing mode on the TV to be far more agreeable with the Xbox (in conjunction with the
normal colour temperature preset), although admittedly I really do tend to just use mine for gaming alone. (Our EX750's have the 4K Netflix/Prime Video apps natively (with HDR) anyway, so I just use those & obviously they have their own (VOD) display settings/config that are remembered on the TV itself separate to those you may have set up for your individual HDMI inputs. (Not sure if the Xbox Netflix app even properly supports HDR (yet) does it? As some have noted, it outputs everything in HDR which just looks awful. (Use the TV's Netflix app if your circumstances allow. Ordinarily, I absolutely insist on a hard line/ethernet connection for any of my devices that are streaming etc. Having said that, the EX750 has a very good integrated Wi-Fi NIC & it actually does a great job with 5 GHz if you're within a decent range of your Wi-Fi router/access point if that's why you're reluctant to use the TV's app?.) I also use a separate Android media player for the home theater aspect of locally stored media that is ideally configured with True cinema & my preferred settings for Kodi, movies etc.) Obviously, this is all
completely subjective & we all have our own preferences, hardware or ways of doing things. Some things I've included purely for the purposes of example or for comparison, or if it might simply point you in the right general direction to improve your current Xbox dilemma
. You can just disregard what clearly isn't applicable to you & hopefully just pick out what could be relevant or helpful to improve the final display from your Xbox
.
Additionally, if you've configured the Xbox itself to use full range RGB colour space, have you manually configured that on the TV for the HDMI input your Xbox uses too, or just left that set to auto? (I.e. try setting the TV's HDMI RGB range to full for the Xbox HDMI input to specifically match them up. It's not unknown for "auto" to "not auto" so to speak lol
. If those settings are mismatched, it could also cause your games to look washed out/crushed, or otherwise utterly "bluergh" using other viewing modes too. (Using that dynamic preset will still remain your primary issue IMHO, however.)
Personally, I still use limited range RGB with my Xbox & TV despite our Panny's having the specific option for either limited, or full range. (Whether my specific AVR plays a part or not I'm not sure but the limited range just seems to look a little better with the Xbox & EX750.) Certainly, my games in HDR immediately seemed to look all the better for it to me, both blacks & whites seemed more natural & I actually found it easier to configure/calibrate the Xbox display using the built in calibration tool too, (I struggled to get a solid calibration using full range). I was originally set to full range at both ends but in certain FPS games as an example, I sometimes struggled to pick up lurking enemies in particular lighting, backgrounds, blah, blah. Blacks often just did not look as intended or they could look plain crushed. I made the swap & quite quickly began to pick up details I had previously been missing or struggling with. (Give it a try, see what you think after a direct comparison. Nothing lost if you feel full range is better, just swap both devices back again, it takes seconds.)
If it's of additional help these are the main sets used on the Xbox & TV. (Obviously 2 different panels can vary, so even if you use them as a base then tweak from there, it may hopefully be a start
.)
Colour depth - 36 bits per pixel - 12 bit, (currently testing vs 30 BPP - 10 bit). My AVR may play a part there too, I seem to recall at one point this setting not permitting higher than 30 bits per pixel (10 bit). Try setting the highest available after you've switched Xbox/TV to limited range RGB & see how it looks to you.
Allow YCC 4:2:2. (Could help more with Netflix & the HT features you may be using your Xbox for.)
Allow HDR10. (I list this under the full assumption you do in fact have it set already lol
!! However, just in case, some do miss this setting occasionally & it could explain why your symptoms seem particularly bad if accidentally missed, that's all
.)
Lastly, if it's of any further help to you. My settings on the TV for my Xbox are...
(Respectively for all, SDR / HDR.)
Viewing mode - Cinema / Cinema
Backlight - 28 - 30 / 100
Contrast - 85 - 90 (game dependant) / 80
Brightness - 0 or +1 (game dependant) / 0
Colour - 55 - 57 (game dependant) / 52 - 55
Tint - 0 / 0
Sharpness - 0 / 0
Colour temp - Normal / Normal
Vivid colour - off / off
Colour remaster - off / off
Reversal film effect - greyed out with game mode
Adaptive backlight - off or min / mid
Ambient sensor - off / off
Noise reduction - off / off
MPEG remaster - off / off
Resolution remaster - off / off
Dynamic range remaster - off / off (greyed out)
Intelligent frame creation - off / off ( greyed out)
Clear motion - off / off
Advanced settings
Contrast control - Usually off / off. (But, have been experimenting with
auto for this for some SDR games lately & some do definitely benefit from it.)
HDR brightness enhancer - on (usually, & as applicable)
Colour gamut - Rec.709 SDR / Rec.2020 HDR. (Double check your TV is
truly auto adjusting between these for SDR & HDR sources respectively & that you haven't accidentally hard set this to HLG or PQ when Rec.709 should apply, for example. I also did some experimenting by hard setting the TV display to
native for SDR games instead of Rec.709. Again, some certainly benefited with colours being significantly more vibrant without any side effects in other areas. I'd suggest going with Rec.709 initially & configuring that as close as you are happy with across the board, then experiment with Rec.709 vs native later on too. See what you think of it yourself
.)
White balance
R-Gain - 0 / +3
G-Gain - -2 / -3
B-Gain - -1 / +1
All other white balance settings are at their defaults & tweak these
after adjusting the main colour slider.
(These Xbox numbers, for examples sake, are completely different for my typical movies/media "home cinema" type settings for other devices/inputs that are based around true cinema & warm 1/2. The Xbox just seems to benefit from a cooler setting, at least for the general interface & gaming. However, dynamic is too far the opposite way completely as you've discovered & it's intended more for brightly kit showrooms than general home use.)
Colour management - all at defaults for SDR & HDR
Gamma - 2.4 / 2.2
Option settings
Game mode - on / on
HDMI content type - auto / auto. (Photos is disabled under the auto detail setting options.)
HDMI EOTF - Auto. (Double check that auto is definitely set there & that you haven't inadvertently hard set PQ or HLG
). If functioning correctly the TV should ordinarily use traditional gamma & only auto switch up to PQ for HDR content from your Xbox. (Use the info button on your TV remote to verify the current output is matching the intended source.)
HDMI RGB range - Limited is currently hard set both ends for me at this time, (as previously covered above.) I'll probably experiment with this again at some point too, however, lol
.
Setup options, (Panny TV main menu)
HDMI auto setting - Mode 2 for my Xbox & all other devices, & usually applies in most cases.
HDMI HDR Setting - Static. I have tried experimenting with this vs dynamic across all of my devices that support standard HDR10 & as would be expected, I can't discern
any difference at all between the two options. (At this time only a small handful of Blu-ray players/apps actually support HDR 10+ that can make full use of the dynamic HDR metadata, otherwise, Dolby Vision also uses dynamic metadata too. Standard HDR10 just uses static HDR only). Technically, by leaving it set to dynamic the TV
should just default down to the associated metadata of any standard HDR10 source content.
However, if you're currently experiencing issues it may be more beneficial for you to simply use the established settings for the standards your hardware is known to support & just leave it set to static. (If nothing else, to minimise the chances of some weird glitch or errors being introduced by selecting an option/setting that your Xbox just can't use. Neither can your TV unless you also own other devices supporting Dolby Vision or one of the newer HDR10+ Blu-ray players capable of conveying the dynamic HDR10+ metadata, and/or actual DV/HDR10+ source media that the TV's built in media player can decode.)
Hope that's of some help to you
? (Let us know how you get on, if things are finally heading in the right direction, or if you still can't seem to get any improvement.)
Finger's crossed
.