Panasonic GZ OLED Series Owners Thread

Yes it does.

I believe the only real 'difference' between the Pro and Pro Plus is that the Pro Plus is certified to 2000 nits, whereas the Pro is 'only' certified to 1000nits. And to be clear, that doesn't mean the Pro can't measure up to and beyond 2000nits, just that you don't 'have' a certification of how accurate it is at that level. A point of note here is I don't believe they can actually do anything to alter how accurate either the Pro nor Pro Plus are as that would require a correction matrix. ;)

Paul

So just out of interest, how accurate are those compared to what I believe is the pro's (expensive) choice the Klein K10 is it?
 
So just out of interest, how accurate are those compared to what I believe is the pro's (expensive) choice the Klein K10 is it?
Ah, good question. It depends on whether the Klein K10 has been profiled against a known reference spectroradiometer and the to be calibrated display, or not. If not, the Klein will likely be no more accurate than the i1D3 (in most areas) just faster to read but, you'll have circa £6k less in your pocket. :D

This is why I've had my i1D3 profiled against my TV (OLEDs have reasonably unique spectral distribution), using a JETI 1511 spectroradiometer. I know it's now as near as damnit as accurate as the very expensive reference spectro.

ETA: The pro's use the Klein K10-A because it reads accurately down to the lowest light level and is just about the fastest meter at reading too. The former isn't that important as a lot of pro's will use their eyes to set the low light. near black parts of the image. The latter obviously plays into how fast a calibration can be. Which is important to the pro's, as it's not a quick task to calibrate a modern display well.

Paul
 
I'd start with 2 clicks and live with it for a week and assess whether your eyes/ brain are telling you it now looks more life like.
Would this be applicable to both HDR and SDR? I've reduced red gain by 4 clicks on HDR and I feel the image is a lot more accurate, albeit this is just a subjective assessment without the utilisation of any measuring equipment.
 
Yes it does.

I believe the only real 'difference' between the Pro and Pro Plus is that the Pro Plus is certified to 2000 nits, whereas the Pro is 'only' certified to 1000nits. And to be clear, that doesn't mean the Pro can't measure up to and beyond 2000nits, just that you don't 'have' a certification of how accurate it is at that level. A point of note here is I don't believe they can actually do anything to alter how accurate either the Pro nor Pro Plus are as that would require a correction matrix. ;)

Paul


Ok thanks so if i buy this in your opinion do you think i would get good results, i know the panasonic GZ950 have great out of the box picture but just curious on any improvements.
 
Would this be applicable to both HDR and SDR? I've reduced red gain by 4 clicks on HDR and I feel the image is a lot more accurate, albeit this is just a subjective assessment without the utilisation of any measuring equipment.
Sounds like you've found the sweet spot, and if you're happy with it, I'd leave it now.

And yes, the same applies for SDR and HDR, at least on my GZ2000.

Paul
 
Ok thanks so if i buy this in your opinion do you think i would get good results, i know the panasonic GZ950 have great out of the box picture but just curious on any improvements.
If you put the effort in then yes, you can get great results. The biggest improvement you should see will be in the detail, depth and 3 dimensionality of the image. But, once your brain has become accustomed to the new, more accurate image, you'll notice how natural it all looks.

Paul
 
No it isn't. It's a processing artefact of the way the HCX processor renders video to the screen. 24P inputs are converted to 60P with 3:2 pulldown so that processing such as IFC can be carried out, then motion detection is used to detect the repeated frames and remove them to get back to 24P. It can only do this when there is sufficient motion in the picture however. For low motion scenes, the video is actually rendered out to the screen at 60P with 3:2 pulldown. Once the motion exceeds the level where the repeated frames can be detected, it's rendered out at proper 24P. The classic 'head turn' stutter and other low-motion artefacts are present at the point where the switchover between 60P and 24P rendering happens. It's much more prevalent on HDR content. It's a crappy way of doing things, but Panasonic have insisted on using the same basic system through all OLED models from the EZ so far.

Bang on. I was watching Heat 4K HDR on iTunes. Was unwatchable as the head turn stutter was spinning my head around. No IFC setting came to the rescue. I am surprised that only few of us are noticing it when I am noticing every 15 minutes to the point I can even predict when it will happen next. :(
 
Sounds like you've found the sweet spot, and if you're happy with it, I'd leave it now.

And yes, the same applies for SDR and HDR, at least on my GZ2000.

Paul
Thank you Paul. Your breakdown of how calibration controls work, especially with regards to the Panny GZs, is most useful.
 
Hi folks, I've recently bought a GZ950 and the SC-HTB600 soundbar and I'm struggling with audio delay/lip-sync issues. The soundbar is connected through the HDMI 2.

PCM: no issues
Dolby Digital (Netflix or Amazon): small delay
Lossy Atmos (Netflix or Amazon): big delay

I'm using high speed cables. I've searched for options within the menus of both the TV and soundbar and couldn't find anything that would help with the situation. I guess it is some sort of compression happening on the TV before sending the audio through ARC.

There's no delay when doing Xbox -> Soundbar -> TV (with Atmos being processed in full and Vision being passed through).

I've seen a few folks talking about lip sync issues in the past in this thread, but was just wondering if there's something that I could try to avoid having to use the Xbox to watch Netflix/Amazon content. Cheers,
 
Hi folks, I've recently bought a GZ950 and the SC-HTB600 soundbar and I'm struggling with audio delay/lip-sync issues. The soundbar is connected through the HDMI 2.

PCM: no issues
Dolby Digital (Netflix or Amazon): small delay
Lossy Atmos (Netflix or Amazon): big delay

I'm using high speed cables. I've searched for options within the menus of both the TV and soundbar and couldn't find anything that would help with the situation. I guess it is some sort of compression happening on the TV before sending the audio through ARC.

There's no delay when doing Xbox -> Soundbar -> TV (with Atmos being processed in full and Vision being passed through).

I've seen a few folks talking about lip sync issues in the past in this thread, but was just wondering if there's something that I could try to avoid having to use the Xbox to watch Netflix/Amazon content. Cheers,

I've always had exactly the same thing using the TV's apps. Lossy Atmos is the worst as you say.

The only thing I could do was turn off ARC and use an optical cable instead, but then this means losing lossy Atmos....
 
I've always had exactly the same thing using the TV's apps. Lossy Atmos is the worst as you say.

The only thing I could do was turn off ARC and use an optical cable instead, but then this means losing lossy Atmos....

Interesting. Yeah using an optical cable seems like a worse compromise than having to use Xbox - although I do find that the image quality from the built in apps is better than the Xbox apps.

I'll likely wait to see what the new Xbox delivers in terms of IQ and go with it or something like a Shield.
 
Bang on. I was watching Heat 4K HDR on iTunes. Was unwatchable as the head turn stutter was spinning my head around. No IFC setting came to the rescue. I am surprised that only few of us are noticing it when I am noticing every 15 minutes to the point I can even predict when it will happen next. :(

I have had my Gz950 for a year now and not noticed this stutter, even played back war of the planet of the apes (get mixed up or the other one) at the beginning with smoke and camera moving forward. Watched this over and over and can not see the frame skips/stutter.

Which i am really pleased because like you would bug me, i owned many years ago a Panasonic V20 what a nightmare the floating blacks annoyed the hell out of me and makes it even worse the review on this site said was not an issue. :(
 
I have had my Gz950 for a year now and not noticed this stutter, even played back war of the planet of the apes (get mixed up or the other one) at the beginning with smoke and camera moving forward. Watched this over and over and can not see the frame skips/stutter.

Which i am really pleased because like you would bug me, i owned many years ago a Panasonic V20 what a nightmare the floating blacks annoyed the hell out of me and makes it even worse the review on this site said was not an issue. :(

Focus on the heads. You will see a sudden stutter. If you don't then consider yourself lucky and blessed :) I have tried messing around with IFC and none of the settings helps.
 
is it
Focus on the heads. You will see a sudden stutter. If you don't then consider yourself lucky and blessed :) I have tried messing around with IFC and none of the settings helps.

is it only 4k movies you see this? or all content
 
is it only 4k movies you see this? or all content
HDR is worst because the bulk of the picture content that the motion processor is looking at to detect the 3:2 frame repeats is compressed into a smaller range of digits than for SDR. Try looking at something like season two of Ozark on Netflix.
 
HDR is worst because the bulk of the picture content that the motion processor is looking at to detect the 3:2 frame repeats is compressed into a smaller range of digits than for SDR. Try looking at something like season two of Ozark on Netflix.

Ahh i don't have netflix in fact i watch no streaming services and have no TV license. 4K disc based movies only is that why i see no frame skips/stuttering?
 
HDR is worst because the bulk of the picture content that the motion processor is looking at to detect the 3:2 frame repeats is compressed into a smaller range of digits than for SDR. Try looking at something like season two of Ozark on Netflix.

Watching Home Alone 4K DV. Plenty of head turn stutter. Its becoming painful. I am genuinely surprised only few are noticing this. I have tried everything I possibly can in vain. IFC doesn't help

If it occurs once an hour I would simply ignore it but I am seeing this every 10-15 mins.
 
Watching Home Alone 4K DV. Plenty of head turn stutter. Its becoming painful. I am genuinely surprised only few are noticing this. I have tried everything I possibly can in vain. IFC doesn't help

If it occurs once an hour I would simply ignore it but I am seeing this every 10-15 mins.

not got home alone would not want that given to me :)

Pick a few 4k movies that you think are bad and will have a look at them sometime.

I am really fussy so i would have noticed these issues, is it player related i have a oppo player.
 
not got home alone would not want that given to me :)

Pick a few 4k movies that you think are bad and will have a look at them sometime.

I am really fussy so i would have noticed these issues, is it player related i have a oppo player.

I have seen this on all sources now (4K discs, iTunes, Netflix and MoviesAnywhere). Wishing you good luck.
 
Watching Home Alone 4K DV. Plenty of head turn stutter. Its becoming painful. I am genuinely surprised only few are noticing this. I have tried everything I possibly can in vain. IFC doesn't help

If it occurs once an hour I would simply ignore it but I am seeing this every 10-15 mins.

Even though I've had my GZ950 since May, it's only been in operation for about a week or so. I've seen a few SDR films on it, but was only yesterday that I finally watched something in 4K HDR.

The movie in question was Deadpool, and I can honestly say that I didn't notice a single instance of frame-skipping/dropping/whatever. My relegated TV is a Philips 6703, which is notorious for dropping frames like a thespian dropping names, and I've become very sensitive to it. However, nothing caught my attention during the screening which shouldn't have, and this was when watching in an entirely pitch-black room where anything would have really stuck out. The only ICF-related thing I am running is that of smoothing being set at "2".

Maybe 'Bad to the Bone' was playing when it came off of the production line...
 
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The movie in question was Deadpool, and I can honestly say that I didn't notice a single instance of frame-skipping/dropping/whatever.
You're not the only one. I can't recall ever seeing it in over a year of GZ2000 ownership. I put on Heat (4K HDR iTunes) yesterday, watched maybe 30 minutes of it, and was perfect, if a little dark in general.

Paul
 
Are you still in the return window?
Something wrong with your TV because like the post above never seen what your are experiencing
 
Are you still in the return window?
Something wrong with your TV because like the post above never seen what your are experiencing

I am not sure. TV is about 3 months old now. At this moment, I don't have the energy or mood to return my TV.

It was a bit worse with 24Hz forced as 60Hz but a bit better with frame rate matching ON. When I press info on the TV, it clearly shows 24Hz.

Few have noticed this issue and I have read few weeks ago where one member has said he had returned this for a Sony.

The main issue I have is that head turn stutter effect which is undefeatable irrespective of IFC. Everything else is fine or within acceptable limits. Maybe its my ATV or my HDMI cable or super sensitive eyes.
 
You'll struggle to get the CalMAN Home for Panasonic from anyone other than Portrait Displays, as I don't believe they let anyone else sell it.

And just the i1 Display Pro will be enough for your needs. There's no need for the Pro Plus version.

Whether you'll be wasting your time and money is entirely down to you and how much time and effort you're willing to invest.

Paul
Hi Paul, just got some questions for you about calibrating a gz950. Years ago I used to calibrate my tvs with an x-rite i1 Pro but that was before we had hdr etc.

If I got a new i1 display pro and calman home would that let me calibrate dolby vision etc? Also how accurate in delta errors is a non profiled display pro these days? I remember reading tests tears ago that showed it was a bit if a lottery, some were more accurate than the old i1 pros but others were 3 delta errors out which made just downloading a random oled profile a gamble. From what I understand Panasonic are already well calibrated, I don't want to risk making it worse with an innacurate meter.

Thanks

Mark
 

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