Hi Dan, I also have the FZ, can you explain in more detail what you mean regarding the improvements in motion? Do you use any IFC settings at all? Interested in your comparison.I recently changed my FZ802 for one of these at home and the improvements in posturisation and motion handing are significant, plus the addition of Dolby Vision of course. Its definitely the best TV ive had at home and probably the best ive ever had.
Dan
A question not focussed on specific this oled... But, I looked at the brightness-levels in the listed window-sizes in this review. I see that 1 %, 2 %, 5 % and 10 % are all equal at the same level.. 650 nits
So I think that even smaller little spots that are below 1 % window.. are also at this level 652 nits..
I was thinking that little spots could get brighter.. But I see that with 10 % window the the pixels are allready on their max.. Okay,.
I question this.. Because I always automatically took 1 % window as small. But if you think about it I find that it is allready BIG.. because a 55 inch tv has 123 cm width so as 10 x 10 = 100,.. Means that 1 % is a tenth of 123 cm,.. so 12,3 cm's wide.. That's a lot bigger than a candle light in the picture for instance..
But the review of the hisense U8QF showed even lower in 1 % window at 550 nits.. Although it had 1.250 nits at 10 % window. On 2 % the Hisense reached the 650 nits just like the panasonic oled does. But then the panasonic oled has 650 nits at 1 % and 2 % against absolute zero nits in the blacks..
And the hisense will have even lower max nits in a smaller window-size of a candle or a lamp in the image than 550 nits that it has in 1 %.
Yes, the OLED805 has the cyan tint to whites seen with all WRGB panels (except the Panasonic)Phil, are the whites on the Philips 805 cyan tinted as I didn't see it mentioned in the review?
One very important aspect you're not considering is power management and that's exactly what the Panasonic is using to dictate the panel's light output, when displaying the various patch sizes measured. Hisense clearly uses a different approach.A question not focussed on specific this oled... But, I looked at the brightness-levels in the listed window-sizes in this review. I see that 1 %, 2 %, 5 % and 10 % are all equal at the same level.. 650 nits
So I think that even smaller little spots that are below 1 % window.. are also at this level 652 nits..
I was thinking that little spots could get brighter.. But I see that with 10 % window the the pixels are allready on their max.. Okay,.
I question this.. Because I always automatically took 1 % window as small. But if you think about it I find that it is allready BIG.. because a 55 inch tv has 123 cm width so as 10 x 10 = 100,.. Means that 1 % is a tenth of 123 cm,.. so 12,3 cm's wide.. That's a lot bigger than a candle light in the picture for instance..
But the review of the hisense U8QF showed even lower in 1 % window at 550 nits.. Although it had 1.250 nits at 10 % window. On 2 % the Hisense reached the 650 nits just like the panasonic oled does. But then the panasonic oled has 650 nits at 1 % and 2 % against absolute zero nits in the blacks..
And the hisense will have even lower max nits in a smaller window-size of a candle or a lamp in the image than 550 nits that it has in 1 %.
I always found the vertical motion an issue, but also IFC was aggressive on the old set even on its lowest setting. It seems to be a lot less "soapy" even on the low setting and I also find the BFI helps a lot. The main thing for me was the posturisation which I thought was poor on the old set. I've really not seen any on the HZ1000. So both issues I felt were letting it down were addressed, cant say more than that. Plus obviously the addition of DV.Hi Dan, I also have the FZ, can you explain in more detail what you mean regarding the improvements in motion? Do you use any IFC settings at all? Interested in your comparison.
ThanksYes, the OLED805 has the cyan tint to whites seen with all WRGB panels (except the Panasonic)
Previous years models suffered from very light frame skipping or judder. Many don’t notice it, and it certainly become better in recent years, but I wonder if you notice anything at all?I always found the vertical motion an issue, but also IFC was aggressive on the old set even on its lowest setting. It seems to be a lot less "soapy" even on the low setting and I also find the BFI helps a lot. The main thing for me was the posturisation which I thought was poor on the old set. I've really not seen any on the HZ1000. So both issues I felt were letting it down were addressed, cant say more than that. Plus obviously the addition of DV.
What an awfully awful fugly stand. If they are paying the guy who designed that atrocity, I wanna apply for the position right now because I think he should be fired.
Yeah the stand makes it look more like a £189 set than an £1899 one. Thankfully I wall mount so it doesn't bother me much.What an awfully awful fugly stand. If they are paying the guy who designed that atrocity, I wanna apply for the position right now because I think he should be fired.
If you think my maths about the patch sizes are off. Please correct me.. If I read 1 % window... I think it's 1 percent of the total square-size. So it will be 1/100 part. And 10 x 10 = 100 ! So,.. 100 parts of 1/10th of width and height.. And that's a reasonable big part of the screen.. Not a candle light or star !One very important aspect you're not considering is power management and that's exactly what the Panasonic is using to dictate the panel's light output, when displaying the various patch sizes measured. Hisense clearly uses a different approach.
I think your maths are off but, if you think about the patch sizes differently, a 1% patch is equal to 83000 pixels being displayed.
Paul
I would like to know about this as well @Phil HintonThanks for the review, I think this will be my next tv purchase. Do you know if it can passthrough Truehd/Atmos/DTS-HD/DTS-X via eARC.
I didn't test that, sorry.I would like to know about this as well @Phil Hinton
Thanks...
Im very sensitive to refresh rates, I didn't notice the frame skip issue on either the FZ or this one. For me it is a total non issue.Previous years models suffered from very light frame skipping or judder. Many don’t notice it, and it certainly become better in recent years, but I wonder if you notice anything at all?
After a bit of research, I'd say it definitely doesn't passthrough DTS-X. I don't think any current tv does but Sony & Philips tv's may be able to in the near future.I would like to know about this as well @Phil Hinton
Thanks...
Thanks for that, I suppose there is no point on relying on today's Smart TVs to do this as none of the streaming services offer Atmos in lossless anyway, it's just Dolby Digital Plus. And for the proper Dolby Atmos content you would have already invested in an AVR/Amp, Blu-ray Player and speaker system anyway.After a bit of research, I'd say it definitely doesn't passthrough DTS-X. I don't think any current tv does but Sony & Philips tv's maybe able to in the near future.
My guess is that the Panasonic's like a lot of current models, will only passthrough Dolby Digital & Dolby Digital+ (Lossy Atmos).
For me it totally defeats the purpose of advertising eARC as most people won't even use it now due to tv manufacturers refusing to support the required Audio Codec's.