Answered Please Help with my 7.1 setup

If the rated frequency respose wwere 80 - 20,000 then yes, you'd not be recomended to set crossovers for those speakers any lower than 80Hz and preferably 10Hz higher than this. This would be the case even if the calibration set the crossovers below 80Hz.
 
If the rated frequency respose wwere 80 - 20,000 then yes, you'd not be recomended to set crossovers for those speakers any lower than 80Hz and preferably 10Hz higher than this. This would be the case even if the calibration set the crossovers below 80Hz.

Thanks Dante for all your help, replies since the beginning of this thread learned a lot of things :smashin:.

Okay then i'll be fixing the setting now, but regarding the 10Hz higher the receiver can only do 20Hz jump so 80 or 100 what your final say ? hahahaha im doing whatever you tell me

And last thing regarding the Atmos since you explained to me that my setup doesn't support Atmos ( while i was thinks before all the time when playing Atmos that i'm getting it ) question is if i got two audio setting on a movie for example Atmos And DTS should i be better playing the DTS since its supported ? or its okay to chose Atmos i'll still enjoy it even without roof speaker or front high for the Atmos setup, and so far when i'm listening to Atmos its Amazing. Thanks Again Datne
 
Thanks Dante for all your help, replies since the beginning of this thread learned a lot of things :smashin:.

Okay then i'll be fixing the setting now, but regarding the 10Hz higher the receiver can only do 20Hz jump so 80 or 100 what your final say ? hahahaha im doing whatever you tell me

And last thing regarding the Atmos since you explained to me that my setup doesn't support Atmos ( while i was thinks before all the time when playing Atmos that i'm getting it ) question is if i got two audio setting on a movie for example Atmos And DTS should i be better playing the DTS since its supported ? or its okay to chose Atmos i'll still enjoy it even without roof speaker or front high for the Atmos setup, and so far when i'm listening to Atmos its Amazing. Thanks Again Datne

You'd more than likely be okay at 80, but maybe just try 100Hz as well to see whether that setting has a smoother transition from the speakers to the sub. The only issue with the higher 100Hz option would be it that results in you being able to localise the sub in association with the higher frequencies, but most people will not have this issue.
 
Are you sure you have your speakers wired up the right way?
It seems very odd to me that your fronts (full range towers) would get a crossover point of 200Hz - likely the highest the receiver can set, whereas the surround back speakers get a crossover point of 60Hz. 60Hz is pretty low for a surround speaker, especially given the surround speakers are getting a crossover of 120Hz and they're di-poles (so have double the cone size).

It's probably the distances but it might be worth checking?
 
Are you sure you have your speakers wired up the right way?
It seems very odd to me that your fronts (full range towers) would get a crossover point of 200Hz - likely the highest the receiver can set, whereas the surround back speakers get a crossover point of 60Hz. 60Hz is pretty low for a surround speaker, especially given the surround speakers are getting a crossover of 120Hz and they're di-poles (so have double the cone size).

It's probably the distances but it might be worth checking?

Yeah they’re a month ago i checked all wires because I haven’t check them for almost a year and just now also double checked they seem fine, but you’re right last time i did Audyssey it set my fronts as a full band now 200Hz, regarding the surround back i think because they’re just 1 meter away from the tripod maybe thats why 60Hz ?
 
Yeah they’re a month ago i checked all wires because I haven’t check them for almost a year and just now also double checked they seem fine, but you’re right last time i did Audyssey it set my fronts as a full band now 200Hz, regarding the surround back i think because they’re just 1 meter away from the tripod maybe thats why 60Hz ?
Something is definitely not right here. It's getting really hard to fathom out. Are your jumper bars in place and fully tightened on the front speakers?
 
Can you try the auto eq with the mic right up by the main speakers? Let’s see if that sets them to full range.
 
Can you try the auto eq with the mic right up by the main speakers? Let’s see if that sets them to full range.
I wonder if the mic is iffy?
 
I'd suspect the issue to be with the front left and right speakers themselves. They are the only speakers exhibiting this behaviour and I doubt that the mic would work in conjunction with the centre speaker, but not the speakers to either side of it?

What speakers are they?
 
Something is definitely not right here. It's getting really hard to fathom out. Are your jumper bars in place and fully tightened on the front speakers?

Actually since you mentioned this last week I remove them because i was removing the speaker wire screw to clean them then i placed back the jumper bars but im not sure should they be set as a certain side because i just placed them don’t know if they’re were flipped but they same tight enough. And another thing I changed the wires from up to down the speaker has 4 wire inputs two up and down with no labels to show if they are different I assumed they’re same should i put them back up ?
 
I'd suspect the issue to be with the front left and right speakers themselves. They are the only speakers exhibiting this behaviour and I doubt that the mic would work in conjunction with the centre speaker, but not the speakers to either side of it?

What speakers are they?

I dont know if this will help last calibration it set my front left at 0db and the right +1db, they are Jamo S 606
 
I did the test here is the video,but it didn't detect the surround back speakers because of the distance but it doesn't matter we wanted to check the fronts only.
 
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here is a picture of what i mean by 4 inputs and how they're connected :

IMG-5189.jpg


And Quick Question the wires are hard to see the difference between red and black the guy where i purchase my setup told me you will find letters on one of the wire that one goes to the red screw and the line without letters goes to the black is that correct ? because thats what i did in both speakers and the Amp here is a picture of the letters on the wire:
IMG-5191.jpg
 
Well that's better, it's a more expected crossover point for the fronts at least. That centre looks too high now!

The cabling at the speaker end looks good, as long as it's all tight and the stripped ends of the wide are making contact with the metal posts.

As for the wiring, it doesn't matter if the cable with the writing is connected to the red or black terminal, as long as it's connected to the same colour terminal at both ends. So black (speaker) to black (amp) and red to red. That's worth checking for all your speakers. For consistency it's usually easier to always connect the cable with markings to the same colour (I use black, but it doesn't matter as long as it's the same).

Questions for you:

- when the amp plays the test tones are they coming out of the correct speakers?

- If possible, can you run the auto-eq at a louder volume? Maybe leave the room to do this if it's uncomfortable. Some mics are less sensitive at lower volumes.

- Run the auto-EQ again about in the middle of all the speakers. I know that's not where you sit, but let's see if the combination of a bit of volume and equal distance ends up with all speakers being detected.


I've been reading that AccuEQ isn't the most accurate of the auto-eq models. If you have the ability to manually set the crossover and distances and you know your speaker models, maybe we do that and be done with it?
 
Well that's better, it's a more expected crossover point for the fronts at least. That centre looks too high now!

The cabling at the speaker end looks good, as long as it's all tight and the stripped ends of the wide are making contact with the metal posts.

As for the wiring, it doesn't matter if the cable with the writing is connected to the red or black terminal, as long as it's connected to the same colour terminal at both ends. So black (speaker) to black (amp) and red to red. That's worth checking for all your speakers. For consistency it's usually easier to always connect the cable with markings to the same colour (I use black, but it doesn't matter as long as it's the same). Then thats a relief because I’m pretty sure all ends from Amp to speakers are same I remember staying 2 hours doing this month ago.

Questions for you:

- when the amp plays the test tones are they coming out of the correct speakers? Yes.

- If possible, can you run the auto-eq at a louder volume? Maybe leave the room to do this if it's uncomfortable. Some mics are less sensitive at lower volumes. If I'm not mistaken I can’t the Auto-Eq set a certain volume cannot be adjusted but i think also it runs on the last volume set i’ll check that matter.

- Run the auto-EQ again about in the middle of all the speakers. I know that's not where you sit, but let's see if the combination of a bit of volume and equal distance ends up with all speakers being detected. Okay will do give just few hours right now I’m going to bed.


I've been reading that AccuEQ isn't the most accurate of the auto-eq models. If you have the ability to manually set the crossover and distances and you know your speaker models, maybe we do that and be done with it? Yeah i read the same thing, before this auto-eq i was setting it manually had a meter and i set all speakers distance correctly and after the auto-eq to be honest there no big difference from my measurements and the auto-eq difference are no more than 0.30-0.60, regarding the crossover also no big difference back on the thread you can see my old settings 80fronts 100C 100Surr 100Surr bk.
After auto-eq 80fronts 90C 120 Surr 100Surr bk. The only difference are Center and surround and also the surround back were at 60hz but per dante recommendation i set it back to 100
 
I dont know if this will help last calibration it set my front left at 0db and the right +1db, they are Jamo S 606

THe db adjustements are just adjustments to the levels in order that the outputs are the same as perceived from wherever you placed the mic. This wouldn't effect the frequency roll offs. I see no issue or problem with the level adjustments that were made.

The rated frequency response of your speakers is 42 - 20,000Hz so I'd find it very odd to be getting such a high roll off detected by the AV receiver during calibration. You should be getting the speakers regarded as being FULL BAND and with readings under 80Hz.
 
THe db adjustements are just adjustments to the levels in order that the outputs are the same as perceived from wherever you placed the mic. This wouldn't effect the frequency roll offs. I see no issue or problem with the level adjustments that were made.

The rated frequency response of your speakers is 42 - 20,000Hz so I'd find it very odd to be getting such a high roll off detected by the AV receiver during calibration. You should be getting the speakers regarded as being FULL BAND and with readings under 80Hz.

IMG-5196.jpg

IMG-5197.jpg


These my db levels right now i didn't change it after calibration i only added +2 to the Surround back L to match the R because calibration set it +2 and the L zero. And in the past two days i was thinking to higher the Surrounds L&R a bit since my surr back are +2, so far i watched movies and noticed when there is a gun shots (single fire) sometimes from the surrounds and sometimes from the Surrounds back but my concern is if there was a 360 sound i think i wont be able to notice the surrounds since sounds will be from all 7 speakers and specially im near the surround back what would you say ? adding +2 to the surround and +1 so (+3) for surround back.

your second paragraph to be honest i didn't understand it 100%, the fronts only start from 42-20.000HZ the rest all from 80-20.000 and Center 75.000-20.000. can you clear this part only please ( You should be getting the speakers regarded as being FULL BAND and with readings under 80Hz.)

when the mic was far back it set them at 200Hz and yesterday if you watched the video after placing the mic in the front it set them at 40Hz is that one you mean above that it should be 42Hz minimum ? and what you think the issue is or how to diagnose this problem ? but anyway im always keeping them at 80Hz after you guys talked to me about beginning of the thread or even if i sat them 80Hz there will still be sound problem because of what i'm getting after the auto-eq ?

Thanks dante
 
The levels are all adjusted so that each and every speaker's output relative to the test tone is the same as measured from the primary listening location. This location equates to where you placed the mic during calibration. The balancing mirrors that used to setup the mixing studios where film soundtracks are mixed so you are in theory hearing the soundtrack portrayed in your room as it was heard by the person who mixed it in the studio. A movie theatre would also be set up in the same manner as setup your listening room. Deviating from the standardised configurations would be done in accordance with your own personal preferences, so if you wanted to highlight the back effects then you are free to increase the levels associated with the back speakers, but you'd not be hearing the soundtrack as it was intended to be heard or be hearing it as the person who mixed it heard it.


Your front left and right speakers should not be resulting in the receiver setting itself to 200Hz in association with those speakers. The reading it takes should be a lot lower and would in all probability be below 80Hz if your speakers were functioning correctly.


The mic needs to be located where you sit as opposed to somewhere else in the room.
 
Maybe the issue is the Onkyo AccuEQ which is crap and maybe consider a new AV receiver that uses a better form or room EQ correction and calibration?
 
Maybe the issue is the Onkyo AccuEQ which is crap and maybe consider a new AV receiver that uses a better form or room EQ correction and calibration?

Or just do it manually with an SPL meter and a tape measure? I'm assuming the receiver can output a test tone?

It'll probably get you a good improvement over what you have now and we'll all understand why things are the way they are!
 
Or just do it manually with an SPL meter and a tape measure? I'm assuming the receiver can output a test tone?

It'll probably get you a good improvement over what you have now and we'll all understand why things are the way they are!


You cannot EQ or measure the frequency roll offs with an SPL meter and a tape measure will not give an accurate indication of delay, especially relative to the sub. You can level the speakers yes, but the accuracy of the other elements ordinarilly addressed by auto calibration are not dealt with using the methods associated with setting up a home theatre setup prior to the advent of auto calibration.

Distance
Seriously, how important can this be? You let auto-calibration take care of this for you, or if you’re feeling particularly hands on, you might whip out the tape measure, right? A word of wisdom: don’t underestimate the power of the distance setting in your A/V receiver. Obviously the primary job of the distance setting is setting a delay relative to your other speakers. Note, the distance reported by your receiver’s auto-calibration will be inclusive of any delay caused by signal processing happening inside the subwoofer (EQ, low pass filtering, etc.), which can add several feet to the distance per your tape measure. Above and beyond this, the distance adjustment functions as a phase control of sorts. Adding or subtracting a couple feet from the distance of your subwoofer is a viable way of getting rid of an ugly peak or dip around the crossover point. Again, to make the most out of this tool, one does need the ability to take measurements. Still, who would have ever thought such an innocuous setting could have that kind of power?
Subwoofer Integration: Bass Management and Distance Settings Explained
 
Agreed. But the method available now isn't working either.

I was just going to suggest setting all crossovers to 100, apart from the mains which will probably be ok at 80. Set the distances to their actual distances, and then set the levels. Will it be the best integration available, probably not. Will it be as good as now. Quite possibly.

I'm not suggesting that we go down this road, but you can use an SPL meter in place of a mic with REW.
 
Maybe the issue is the Onkyo AccuEQ which is crap and maybe consider a new AV receiver that uses a better form or room EQ correction and calibration?

That’s an option but i just purchased this Amp, okay so far the issue is only on the fronts ? Everything else seems fine the Distance after auto-eq ended up same numbers when i did with tape measure.

When you mentioned about the front speakers that it should be below 80Hz the far the mic goes away from fronts resulting high Hz when I did the auto-ea where i sit it ended up 200Hz and when i placed the mic near them you saw the results 40Hz isn’t that normal ? Im going to place it in the middle and lets see
 
Agreed. But the method available now isn't working either.

I was just going to suggest setting all crossovers to 100, apart from the mains which will probably be ok at 80. Set the distances to their actual distances, and then set the levels. Will it be the best integration available, probably not. Will it be as good as now. Quite possibly.

I'm not suggesting that we go down this road, but you can use an SPL meter in place of a mic with REW.

So far the settings distance and crossover are like my previous settings the issue is in the fronts only
 

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