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Samsung NU8000 Owners Thread

Foster1984

Well-known Member
To get to the service menu just have your TV on stand by, and click info, menu, 182, power.
It is the steps for accessing the service menu; but you’d need a candy bar style remote in order to do it.

With TV powered off to standby, press info, settings, mute and then power. When the TV powers on, it will be in the service menu.
 

Foster1984

Well-known Member
Service Menu has anyone else looked in your service menu on your Samsung Nu8000?
To get to the service menu just have your TV on stand by, and click info, menu, 182, power.
Yes, been in it a number of times.

I even looked in the service menu to see if there were any setting that would help me letting my Yamaha AV receiver to turn off and turn on my TV. No luck
I can’t think of any settings in the service menu that would help with that issue.
 

Foster1984

Well-known Member
Has anyone on here tested Samsung's Game Motion Plus? How well does it work?
Yeah I have tested it; how well it works, depends on what you want it to do.

It attempts to use motion controls to insert additional frames, thus turning a lower frame rate game into a perceived 120Hz game.

I don’t use it, because in reality it isn’t fast enough to keep up with faster paced games and/or the fluctuating frame rates given out by most devices. So it causes the introduction of picture oddities; this IMO far outweighs the benefits of the “increased framerate”.

Plus it introduced additional input lag, thus defeating the main purpose of “Game” mode. Not as much as if "Game" mode wasn't on, but still more either way.
 

IntelliVolume

Active Member
It is the steps for accessing the service menu; but you’d need a candy bar style remote in order to do it.

With TV powered off to standby, press info, settings, mute and then power. When the TV powers on, it will be in the service menu.
Oh I see; didn't initially understand the point of the post.
 

IntelliVolume

Active Member
Just as an odd curiosity...

I came across these comments over at AVS from owners in that forum's dedicated NU8000 thread:

After updating to 1290.4 my Amazon Prime, which I access thru the TV, seems to have slowed down. Scrolling thru movie lists and stopping/resuming movies is slower.
Anybody else experience this?


And...

Fit to Screen is now disabled on 1290.4 need old version.

Fit to Screen is now disabled on the new firmware. do anyone have one version before 1270.xx
Thanks

if u use less then 60mhz.

Fix It. Can't use the pc preset it make it grey out. all other ones works.


And...

Yes, I have the same experience but not only that. The splash screen logo is now huge, monochromatic and looks terrible, the busy animation is bigger and not as polished as before; and worst of all, the 1080p next to HD is gone from the info bar now, 720p and 1080p are both displayed as HD now. The amazon prime app feels like a significant downgrade overall. Shame.

I personally have not experienced the slower movement, loss of Fit to Screen or a bigger, more "obnoxious" splash screen, as these folks are reporting since the 1290 update...

Has anyone here?
 

Foster1984

Well-known Member
Just as an odd curiosity...

I came across these comments over at AVS from owners in that forum's dedicated NU8000 thread:

After updating to 1290.4 my Amazon Prime, which I access thru the TV, seems to have slowed down. Scrolling thru movie lists and stopping/resuming movies is slower.
Anybody else experience this?


And...

Fit to Screen is now disabled on 1290.4 need old version.

Fit to Screen is now disabled on the new firmware. do anyone have one version before 1270.xx
Thanks

if u use less then 60mhz.

Fix It. Can't use the pc preset it make it grey out. all other ones works.


And...

Yes, I have the same experience but not only that. The splash screen logo is now huge, monochromatic and looks terrible, the busy animation is bigger and not as polished as before; and worst of all, the 1080p next to HD is gone from the info bar now, 720p and 1080p are both displayed as HD now. The amazon prime app feels like a significant downgrade overall. Shame.

I personally have not experienced the slower movement, loss of Fit to Screen or a bigger, more "obnoxious" splash screen, as these folks are reporting since the 1290 update...

Has anyone here?
No issues with a bigger splash screen, slower movement or "HD" display.

But on certain things I notice that "Fit to Screen" is now greyed out; seems to be on the internal apps only, as still available for HDMI devices.
 

IntelliVolume

Active Member
No issues with a bigger splash screen, slower movement or "HD" display.

But on certain things I notice that "Fit to Screen" is now greyed out; seems to be on the internal apps only, as still available for HDMI devices.
Thanks for the feedback, Foster; indeed, I'm not using the internal apps, so perhaps that's why I didn't experience the Fit to Screen thing...

Interestingly, I DID notice that once my panel started receiving 2160 incoming resolution (from the Cambridge), the Fit to Screen's AUTO selection disappeared as an option, where it was once there before (when previously receiving 1080p resolution from my older Oppo BD player)...

Someone at Blu-ray.com had told me that it was probably because the television just won't provide the option of "Auto" with full 4K signals as they're "not really supposed to be overscanned," or something to that effect....
 

zeppelino

Well-known Member
Where a source handles the majority of the processing the tv is essentially a monitor and just does as it’s told.
 

IntelliVolume

Active Member
Where a source handles the majority of the processing the tv is essentially a monitor and just does as it’s told.
But here's the thing: This ONLY happened when my source went from a 1080p one (the old Blu-ray player, outputting 1080p to the Samsung) or a 1080i one (my cable box) to a 2160p variant (the new Blu-ray player) -- in other words, I HAD the Fit to Screen: AUTO option when feeding these lower resolutions (and still do with the cable box; it's actually what I use for that source) but I don't since the panel has been receiving 2160 resolution (evidenced when I go into the settings menu while the Blu-ray source is activated and the only Fit to Screen options available are OFF and ON)...
 

IntelliVolume

Active Member
No change here on the HDMI inputs and internal tuner.
Never noticed "fit to screen" on apps so can't comment on that...
Weird then; must be certain owners' sets experiencing these snafus...
 

LCD HD

Member
A while back I posted about the HDR+ option. Finally had the time to test it properly.
I used the same settings for Movie HDR+ as for the normal Movie mode.

It looks exactly the same as normal Movie for SDR sources, except for two things.

The most important is that HDR+ disables highlight crushing on very dark SDR scenes.
(sorry for the phone images, but easier to show than to explain ;) )

SDR movie, clipping of 100% bar (looks the same as 90%)

SDR movie HDR+, 100% and 90% properly displayed

SDR movie, clipping on the bottom planet

SDR movie HDR+, no clipping all details visible


There's also a slight change to highlight colour saturation, most noticeable on blue. But it's a very slight and hard do photograph.

Interesting don't you think ?
 

Foster1984

Well-known Member
A while back I posted about the HDR+ option. Finally had the time to test it properly.
I used the same settings for Movie HDR+ as for the normal Movie mode.

It looks exactly the same as normal Movie for SDR sources, except for two things.

The most important is that HDR+ disables highlight crushing on very dark SDR scenes.
(sorry for the phone images, but easier to show than to explain ;) )

SDR movie, clipping of 100% bar (looks the same as 90%)

SDR movie HDR+, 100% and 90% properly displayed

SDR movie, clipping on the bottom planet

SDR movie HDR+, no clipping all details visible


There's also a slight change to highlight colour saturation, most noticeable on blue. But it's a very slight and hard do photograph.

Interesting don't you think ?
Links to pictures 2 & 3 are the wrong way round. :smashin:
 

Foster1984

Well-known Member
Interestingly, I DID notice that once my panel started receiving 2160 incoming resolution (from the Cambridge), the Fit to Screen's AUTO selection disappeared as an option, where it was once there before (when previously receiving 1080p resolution from my older Oppo BD player)...
With a 2160 source signal, the ‘Auto’ function sort of becomes defunct. Since there are enough pixels to fill the screen by default.

Someone at Blu-ray.com had told me that it was probably because the television just won't provide the option of "Auto" with full 4K signals as they're "not really supposed to be overscanned," or something to that effect....
A 2160 signal will have enough pixel to fill the screen; so “fit to screen” would be ‘on’, by default, unless you wish to turn it ‘off’ and force through any difference in signal from the source.

But you have your CXUHD upscale everything to 2160, so the NU just assumes that it is a native 2160, as it can’t tell the difference. So if you switched your CXUHD to output in something different than 2160, the ‘Auto’ option would likely be available again.
 

anchorless

Active Member
Without trawling through all the posts, does anyone have any recommended Auto Motion Plus settings? Ones that will improve picture without introducing SOE on 24p material? (If such a thing exists) I've currently got it enabled but set to 0/0 as recommended. Thanks in advance 👍🏻
 

Foster1984

Well-known Member
Without trawling through all the posts, does anyone have any recommended Auto Motion Plus settings? Ones that will improve picture without introducing SOE on 24p material? (If such a thing exists) I've currently got it enabled but set to 0/0 as recommended. Thanks in advance 👍🏻
SoE is highly subjective; you really would have to tweak yourself and decide where your tolerance is. For 24p material, you would only need to adjust the judder slider though.

So pick some content you notice judder on, keep repeating the scene while increasing the value until the judder goes away. Then watch a scene that didn't have judder, and see if you can notice SoE.

If you don't, then great, you're all set.

If you do, then decrease until it is gone; whatever value you land on is the highest value you can go for your SoE tolerance.
 

IntelliVolume

Active Member
Without trawling through all the posts, does anyone have any recommended Auto Motion Plus settings? Ones that will improve picture without introducing SOE on 24p material? (If such a thing exists) I've currently got it enabled but set to 0/0 as recommended. Thanks in advance 👍🏻
I use Blur: 10 and Judder: 5; seems to provide smooth motion without SOE (or just a SMIDGEN of it on certain content).
 

IntelliVolume

Active Member
With a 2160 source signal, the ‘Auto’ function sort of becomes defunct. Since there are enough pixels to fill the screen by default.



A 2160 signal will have enough pixel to fill the screen; so “fit to screen” would be ‘on’, by default, unless you wish to turn it ‘off’ and force through any difference in signal from the source.

But you have your CXUHD upscale everything to 2160, so the NU just assumes that it is a native 2160, as it can’t tell the difference. So if you switched your CXUHD to output in something different than 2160, the ‘Auto’ option would likely be available again.
That's pretty much what I was saying...
 

LCD HD

Member
After much experimentation, I've been able to fix SDR colour gamma tracking (and highlight color clipping). At least on my panel, only green had the same gamma as grayscale, the other colours were off.
This can be fixed by playing with the colorspace settings.

I took the rtings settings and adjusted them visually for the RGB primaries on my 49'' panel. Here are my settings:

Gamma - 1
Color - 26

R - 37, 5, 0
G - 10, 41, 10
B - 0, 0, 83
Y - 33, 41, 12
C - 19, 42, 100
M - 0, 9, 91

Now all RGB colours track gamma 2.2 better and highlight clipping is uniform (DN 252). I guess I've defined a slightly larger colourspace, so saturation is a bit better. CMY are a bit of a guess work, but all tones still look natural to me.

(The usual caution about copy/paste settings applies ;) )
 
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Vagval13

Novice Member
I have the gamma left to zero, yet i see many people recomending -1? Also brightness to -1? How does this all work, what's the advice.
 

Foster1984

Well-known Member
I have the gamma left to zero, yet i see many people recomending -1? Also brightness to -1? How does this all work, what's the advice.
People recommend it in order to try to "improve" the black level performance of the TV.

In reality, it merely creates a darker image with black crush through raising the value level of what the TV sees as 'video black'.

Best advice IMO is to leave it alone.
 

Vagval13

Novice Member
People recommend it in order to try to "improve" the black level performance of the TV.

In reality, it merely creates a darker image with black crush through raising the value level of what the TV sees as 'video black'.

Best advice IMO is to leave it alone.
Both the gamma and the brightness you mean?
 

IntelliVolume

Active Member
Yes, both of them.
Perhaps you should explain to him the differences between gamma and brightness in terms of what each truly changes or controls; for example, how gamma can actually shift the brightness of the entire image, not just near-black (like we once discussed)...
 

LCD HD

Member
Here's a good explanation of gamma. It's based on PC monitors, but it applies for any LCD screen (like the NU): EIZO monitor know-how: Learning about LCD monitor gamma

Gamma 0 on the NU translates to gamma 2.4.
For SDR content you need it to be 2.2, so set the NU's gamma to 1 or 2 (but no more). That will bring it near 2.2..

As for black, it's controlled by Backlight (Brightness only sets the black clipping point).
So for deeper blacks simply drop the backlight.
 

IntelliVolume

Active Member
Gamma 0 on the NU translates to gamma 2.4.
From all accounts, that's true...

For SDR content you need it to be 2.2, so set the NU's gamma to 1 or 2 (but no more). That will bring it near 2.2..
But for viewing in a COMPLETELY dark (or very dim) room/environment, I'd have to say "0" is better (for around the aforementioned 2.4 curve), even though SDR may be "mastered" at 2.2 gamma; going higher on the gamma slider may be okay for overcoming room lighting or sun coming in from windows, et al., but I'd recommend keeping it on "0" for dark room viewing.

As for black, it's controlled by Backlight (Brightness only sets the black clipping point).
So for deeper blacks simply drop the backlight.
I know this is what folks like Foster and I have been discussing almost ad nauseum at this point in this thread, but I gotta say...while I am very tempted to drop this from my "11" setting right now even lower (for SDR), I have reservations because I'd be dropping the overall light output for DVD and Blu-ray playback, and as it is, "11" is kinda pushing it in terms of where that should be (for about 100 or so nit output for SDR)...

So while it may be logical to play with the backlight slider to control black levels -- honestly, Samsung should have just done what every other manufacturer does and implement a BRIGHTNESS control to adjust BLACK LEVEL parameters, as it's always been -- I'm hesitant about recommending this because it's gonna drop overall light output, as well.
 

LCD HD

Member
But for viewing in a COMPLETELY dark (or very dim) room/environment, I'd have to say "0" is better (for around the aforementioned 2.4 curve)
Depends on what's more important for you. If it is calibrated settings (or getting close to them) then you want gamma 2.2. If it is your own tweaks, then go for whatever you like best. ;)

Samsung should have just done what every other manufacturer does and implement a BRIGHTNESS control to adjust BLACK LEVEL parameters
I'd just rename the sliders Black, Black Clipping and White Clipping (instead of Backlight, Brightness and Contrast) because that's what they set on a LCD :)

Brightness works along with the HDMI Black Level. Both settings control the black clipping point and are effective. It you set HDMI Black Level to Normal you get a lower clipping point, that you can then fine tune with Brightness. As far as I can tell this gives you full control of the incoming HDMI signal.
 

IntelliVolume

Active Member
Depends on what's more important for you. If it is calibrated settings (or getting close to them) then you want gamma 2.2. If it is your own tweaks, then go for whatever you like best. ;)
Well, to be honest, on this particular TV, it really would be better -- and something other than a matter of "importance" or "preference" -- if Gamma was on "0" for a dark room, given its somewhat poor, elevated blacks (in general); there are even some reviews (of models other than the NU, in fact, and of other brands) that point out 2.4 (the "0" position on the Samsung Gamma sliders, supposedly) is really better/meant for dim environments. :lesson:

I'd just rename the sliders Black, Black Clipping and White Clipping (instead of Backlight, Brightness and Contrast) because that's what they set on a LCD :)
True, and interesting suggestions; indeed, these monikers have always been confusing, especially to newbies attempting to adjust their sets, as "Brightness" really does suggest the overall "intensity" of the screen, hence it should relate to BACKLIGHT more (I applaud Sony in this regard which changed the monikers of their sets' adjustments to "Brightness" for Backlight and "Black Level" for just that; makes more sense)...

Brightness works along with the HDMI Black Level. Both settings control the black clipping point and are effective. It you set HDMI Black Level to Normal you get a lower clipping point, that you can then fine tune with Brightness. As far as I can tell this gives you full control of the incoming HDMI signal.
Just to be sure we're talking about the same thing -- where is this setting located on our NU's? Are you referring to that old setting parameter for HDMI Black Level that Samsung dropped from certain sets (if not all)?
 

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