Samsung NU8000 Owners Thread

No change here on the HDMI inputs and internal tuner.
Never noticed "fit to screen" on apps so can't comment on that...
Weird then; must be certain owners' sets experiencing these snafus...
 
A while back I posted about the HDR+ option. Finally had the time to test it properly.
I used the same settings for Movie HDR+ as for the normal Movie mode.

It looks exactly the same as normal Movie for SDR sources, except for two things.

The most important is that HDR+ disables highlight crushing on very dark SDR scenes.
(sorry for the phone images, but easier to show than to explain ;) )

SDR movie, clipping of 100% bar (looks the same as 90%)

SDR movie HDR+, 100% and 90% properly displayed

SDR movie, clipping on the bottom planet

SDR movie HDR+, no clipping all details visible


There's also a slight change to highlight colour saturation, most noticeable on blue. But it's a very slight and hard do photograph.

Interesting don't you think ?
 
A while back I posted about the HDR+ option. Finally had the time to test it properly.
I used the same settings for Movie HDR+ as for the normal Movie mode.

It looks exactly the same as normal Movie for SDR sources, except for two things.

The most important is that HDR+ disables highlight crushing on very dark SDR scenes.
(sorry for the phone images, but easier to show than to explain ;) )

SDR movie, clipping of 100% bar (looks the same as 90%)

SDR movie HDR+, 100% and 90% properly displayed

SDR movie, clipping on the bottom planet

SDR movie HDR+, no clipping all details visible


There's also a slight change to highlight colour saturation, most noticeable on blue. But it's a very slight and hard do photograph.

Interesting don't you think ?

Links to pictures 2 & 3 are the wrong way round. :smashin:
 
Interestingly, I DID notice that once my panel started receiving 2160 incoming resolution (from the Cambridge), the Fit to Screen's AUTO selection disappeared as an option, where it was once there before (when previously receiving 1080p resolution from my older Oppo BD player)...

With a 2160 source signal, the ‘Auto’ function sort of becomes defunct. Since there are enough pixels to fill the screen by default.

Someone at Blu-ray.com had told me that it was probably because the television just won't provide the option of "Auto" with full 4K signals as they're "not really supposed to be overscanned," or something to that effect....

A 2160 signal will have enough pixel to fill the screen; so “fit to screen” would be ‘on’, by default, unless you wish to turn it ‘off’ and force through any difference in signal from the source.

But you have your CXUHD upscale everything to 2160, so the NU just assumes that it is a native 2160, as it can’t tell the difference. So if you switched your CXUHD to output in something different than 2160, the ‘Auto’ option would likely be available again.
 
Without trawling through all the posts, does anyone have any recommended Auto Motion Plus settings? Ones that will improve picture without introducing SOE on 24p material? (If such a thing exists) I've currently got it enabled but set to 0/0 as recommended. Thanks in advance 👍🏻
 
Without trawling through all the posts, does anyone have any recommended Auto Motion Plus settings? Ones that will improve picture without introducing SOE on 24p material? (If such a thing exists) I've currently got it enabled but set to 0/0 as recommended. Thanks in advance 👍🏻

SoE is highly subjective; you really would have to tweak yourself and decide where your tolerance is. For 24p material, you would only need to adjust the judder slider though.

So pick some content you notice judder on, keep repeating the scene while increasing the value until the judder goes away. Then watch a scene that didn't have judder, and see if you can notice SoE.

If you don't, then great, you're all set.

If you do, then decrease until it is gone; whatever value you land on is the highest value you can go for your SoE tolerance.
 
Without trawling through all the posts, does anyone have any recommended Auto Motion Plus settings? Ones that will improve picture without introducing SOE on 24p material? (If such a thing exists) I've currently got it enabled but set to 0/0 as recommended. Thanks in advance 👍🏻
I use Blur: 10 and Judder: 5; seems to provide smooth motion without SOE (or just a SMIDGEN of it on certain content).
 
With a 2160 source signal, the ‘Auto’ function sort of becomes defunct. Since there are enough pixels to fill the screen by default.



A 2160 signal will have enough pixel to fill the screen; so “fit to screen” would be ‘on’, by default, unless you wish to turn it ‘off’ and force through any difference in signal from the source.

But you have your CXUHD upscale everything to 2160, so the NU just assumes that it is a native 2160, as it can’t tell the difference. So if you switched your CXUHD to output in something different than 2160, the ‘Auto’ option would likely be available again.
That's pretty much what I was saying...
 
After much experimentation, I've been able to fix SDR colour gamma tracking (and highlight color clipping). At least on my panel, only green had the same gamma as grayscale, the other colours were off.
This can be fixed by playing with the colorspace settings.

I took the rtings settings and adjusted them visually for the RGB primaries on my 49'' panel. Here are my settings:

Gamma - 1
Color - 26

R - 37, 5, 0
G - 10, 41, 10
B - 0, 0, 83
Y - 33, 41, 12
C - 19, 42, 100
M - 0, 9, 91

Now all RGB colours track gamma 2.2 better and highlight clipping is uniform (DN 252). I guess I've defined a slightly larger colourspace, so saturation is a bit better. CMY are a bit of a guess work, but all tones still look natural to me.

(The usual caution about copy/paste settings applies ;) )
 
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I have the gamma left to zero, yet i see many people recomending -1? Also brightness to -1? How does this all work, what's the advice.
 
I have the gamma left to zero, yet i see many people recomending -1? Also brightness to -1? How does this all work, what's the advice.

People recommend it in order to try to "improve" the black level performance of the TV.

In reality, it merely creates a darker image with black crush through raising the value level of what the TV sees as 'video black'.

Best advice IMO is to leave it alone.
 
People recommend it in order to try to "improve" the black level performance of the TV.

In reality, it merely creates a darker image with black crush through raising the value level of what the TV sees as 'video black'.

Best advice IMO is to leave it alone.
Both the gamma and the brightness you mean?
 
Yes, both of them.
Perhaps you should explain to him the differences between gamma and brightness in terms of what each truly changes or controls; for example, how gamma can actually shift the brightness of the entire image, not just near-black (like we once discussed)...
 
Here's a good explanation of gamma. It's based on PC monitors, but it applies for any LCD screen (like the NU): EIZO monitor know-how: Learning about LCD monitor gamma

Gamma 0 on the NU translates to gamma 2.4.
For SDR content you need it to be 2.2, so set the NU's gamma to 1 or 2 (but no more). That will bring it near 2.2..

As for black, it's controlled by Backlight (Brightness only sets the black clipping point).
So for deeper blacks simply drop the backlight.
 
Gamma 0 on the NU translates to gamma 2.4.

From all accounts, that's true...

For SDR content you need it to be 2.2, so set the NU's gamma to 1 or 2 (but no more). That will bring it near 2.2..

But for viewing in a COMPLETELY dark (or very dim) room/environment, I'd have to say "0" is better (for around the aforementioned 2.4 curve), even though SDR may be "mastered" at 2.2 gamma; going higher on the gamma slider may be okay for overcoming room lighting or sun coming in from windows, et al., but I'd recommend keeping it on "0" for dark room viewing.

As for black, it's controlled by Backlight (Brightness only sets the black clipping point).
So for deeper blacks simply drop the backlight.
I know this is what folks like Foster and I have been discussing almost ad nauseum at this point in this thread, but I gotta say...while I am very tempted to drop this from my "11" setting right now even lower (for SDR), I have reservations because I'd be dropping the overall light output for DVD and Blu-ray playback, and as it is, "11" is kinda pushing it in terms of where that should be (for about 100 or so nit output for SDR)...

So while it may be logical to play with the backlight slider to control black levels -- honestly, Samsung should have just done what every other manufacturer does and implement a BRIGHTNESS control to adjust BLACK LEVEL parameters, as it's always been -- I'm hesitant about recommending this because it's gonna drop overall light output, as well.
 
But for viewing in a COMPLETELY dark (or very dim) room/environment, I'd have to say "0" is better (for around the aforementioned 2.4 curve)

Depends on what's more important for you. If it is calibrated settings (or getting close to them) then you want gamma 2.2. If it is your own tweaks, then go for whatever you like best. ;)

Samsung should have just done what every other manufacturer does and implement a BRIGHTNESS control to adjust BLACK LEVEL parameters
I'd just rename the sliders Black, Black Clipping and White Clipping (instead of Backlight, Brightness and Contrast) because that's what they set on a LCD :)

Brightness works along with the HDMI Black Level. Both settings control the black clipping point and are effective. It you set HDMI Black Level to Normal you get a lower clipping point, that you can then fine tune with Brightness. As far as I can tell this gives you full control of the incoming HDMI signal.
 
Depends on what's more important for you. If it is calibrated settings (or getting close to them) then you want gamma 2.2. If it is your own tweaks, then go for whatever you like best. ;)

Well, to be honest, on this particular TV, it really would be better -- and something other than a matter of "importance" or "preference" -- if Gamma was on "0" for a dark room, given its somewhat poor, elevated blacks (in general); there are even some reviews (of models other than the NU, in fact, and of other brands) that point out 2.4 (the "0" position on the Samsung Gamma sliders, supposedly) is really better/meant for dim environments. :lesson:

I'd just rename the sliders Black, Black Clipping and White Clipping (instead of Backlight, Brightness and Contrast) because that's what they set on a LCD :)

True, and interesting suggestions; indeed, these monikers have always been confusing, especially to newbies attempting to adjust their sets, as "Brightness" really does suggest the overall "intensity" of the screen, hence it should relate to BACKLIGHT more (I applaud Sony in this regard which changed the monikers of their sets' adjustments to "Brightness" for Backlight and "Black Level" for just that; makes more sense)...

Brightness works along with the HDMI Black Level. Both settings control the black clipping point and are effective. It you set HDMI Black Level to Normal you get a lower clipping point, that you can then fine tune with Brightness. As far as I can tell this gives you full control of the incoming HDMI signal.
Just to be sure we're talking about the same thing -- where is this setting located on our NU's? Are you referring to that old setting parameter for HDMI Black Level that Samsung dropped from certain sets (if not all)?
 
....given its somewhat poor, elevated blacks (in general)...

Compared with what ? What models (within the same price range of course) are better ?
 
Compared with what ? What models (within the same price range of course) are better ?
I don't have any models to compare it to; I'm simply saying that, to my eyes, the blacks are poor on this set in pitch black conditions, which has had me in the past experimenting with lowering Brightness and Gamma (I know quite a few owners of this model and other Samsungs, including QLEDs, have experimented with dropping these controls over on AVS Forum if you take a gander around their TV threads).

That being said, I did kind of promise Foster that I wouldn't complain anymore about the set's black level performance here and just deal with it until I can upgrade, so that's all I'll say about it....:laugh::p
 
Then that selection is greyed out on my panel (feeding it a 2160p signal for that input).

This option is only available if your source device is sending an RGB 4:4:4 signal.

Which your CXUHD probably isn’t; since movies are generally at 4:2:0, its most likely this is what your CXUHD is sending to the TV, therefore you can’t use this option.

That being said, I did kind of promise Foster that I wouldn't complain anymore about the set's black level performance here and just deal with it until I can upgrade, so that's all I'll say about it....

No need to stop complaining about it.

I just think we have got it as good as we are can get it, for you now.

We have either reached the limits of what your panel can produce, or the limits of what local dimming is capable of in such a dark environment.

--------------------------

As an aside, I just ordered an OLED; an LG B9. So will let you know how that performs once it arrives.

Watch the below video comparing FALD QLED to OLED. As I still maintain you would be better saving up for longer and going for an OLED, rather than stumping up for any FALD, just for the little bit of an improvement on the NU.

He has a video play of a star system and you can see how the OLED shows stars without blooming, whilst the QLED still shows some blooming. In fact the QLED just isn’t able to show some of the really small stars at all because of how LCD tech works.



Whilst he isn’t in a dark room, this effect and gap in clarity would only widen further in a dark environment. Though he only briefly references dark room performance.

As an additional note to this video, whilst his specialty isn’t TVs, he does a good job of showing and explaining the differences; and is by far a more reliable tech reviewer than the other 2 clowns we usually have to reference.
 

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