The Dark Light Rises - Jenz Cinema

🤑🤑😂
 
So after using my M&K LCR's now for several weeks I am pleased to report that I am extremely pleased.

The overall soundstage feels and sounds that it has been lifted to a whole new level. I'm finding that I'm getting better separation all around, far better integration with my XTZ 1x12 Sub, and overall clarity that I was certainly missed. This is coming from Keg Eggs which have always (before) sounded good.

So if you're debating these "smaller" M&K LCR 750THX's I'd highly, highly recommend them.
 
I've decided to pick up a MiniDSP 2x4HD with UMIK Mic from Ricky at Kalibrate as I want to experiment with REW and BEQ next.

Also planning my professional calibration of the Epson 9400 once lockdown is lifted.

Then I'll be saving for more Surrounds and Rears and second Sub I suspect.
 
Still awaiting deliveries of the MiniDSP and UMIK 1 so have bought an old pair of M&K K5 Rears to replace my last two Kef Eggs that are my current 2 rears. So now will be all M&K for the speakers.

Can't really move forward on my Sub decisions until I have the UMIK and MiniDSP and am able to run REW and see what's happening in my room not that it sounds bad :laugh:
 
Have received my M&K K5 Rears but foolishly realised they do not come with wall brackets. So now need to source some from somewhere. Probably generic suitable ones if anyone has any ideas or suggestions let me know?

In other good news I've got my UMIK and MiniDSP coming shortly from Ricky at Kalibrate so my say am just a little excited about that, Sub optimisation and BEQ. I've also run the REW Room Simulator with accurate measurements on room size etc and arrived at these Graphs not sure if they are fully correct as lots to read.

REW Room Sim pre-Measure.jpg

Room_Simulation_and_REW_V5_20_Beta_55_and_Home_Cinema.jpg


I've set the Crossover Filter at 120Hz which is what my Audyssey is currently set at. I'm unclear on the LF Sub setting as to whether that's the supposed lower range of the Sub (my XTZ 1x12 is supposed to be 19hz +/- 3db). So still lots to learn and also what it's actually telling me so far :blush:
 
Have now received my UMIK1 and MiniDSP 2x4HD from @Rickyj at Kalibrate to begin playing with just as my wife fills the cinema room with "other room furniture" due to decorating !

It'll all be clear shortly though as @Gordon @ Convergent AV is calibrating the Projector and TV this friday :clap:
 
Started to experiment with REW and UMIK-1 before I add my MiniDSP 2x4HD. Have to say I'm bloomin' confused and not altogether sure what I'm doing. Have run my first measurements and am not sure how to interpret them or actually whether they are any good :blush:

This is Left/Right/Sub with 80Hz Crossover and Audyssey XT32 On.

AllXT32onjuly19th.jpg
 
But now reading through the REW Current Guide I fear I have used the wrong sound settings to validate my Trim Settings on Speakers :(

There really ought to be a Noobs Guide!
 
room Mope Calcs.png


My Room Mode Calcs trying to figure out why I am having response issues with REW measuring my Sub.
 
So I sat hovering over the Checkout Button for 2 x Arendal 1961 1S's to replace my single XTZ 1x12 Cinema...

Then I foolishly spoke to @mb3195 ....

Yep 2 1961 1S's ordered and incoming :clap:
 
mb3195 filter sub comparison.jpg


This is a good example of how a MiniDSp 2x4HD plus UMIK-1 Microphone can tame a Single Sub in a room.

The Green line is the before view showing a high peak at 45Hz and Null at 60Hz. Using REW and it's EQ function @mb3195 was able to tame my sub (XTZ 1x12 Cinema) and produce the flatter smoother Brown line. This created a filter that I then uploaded into the MiniDSP. Already sounds better!
 
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Someone’s new Subs have arrived in Birmingham for delivery to me tomorrow. So that’s Arendal in Norway to Milton Keynes U.K. in 3 days :clap:
 
Arendal 1961 1s Subwoofers....

Quickly checked they are working and added to MiniDsp 2x4HD.

Very heavy, well packed, they are black matte with a nice fine finger print free texture. Smaller than expected. No hum on mine. Screen on back is a ball ache and they are hard to photograph!

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Bizarrely the Arendal 1961 1s & 1v supplied Handbook in the box does not tell you how to setup the Sub. The manual is only available online.

I created my own PDF for ease of use here:

Arendal 1961 Subwoofer Setup 1s & 1v

*EDIT* SEE FURTHER DOWN FOR THE OFFICIAL MANUAL ALTHOUGH MINE IS SMALLER AND HAS EXTRA INFO
 
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Over the last few days and weeks I've been given extensive help on my Subwoofer calibration and alignment. I'm particularly thankful for all the help given by @mb3195 (way to much help! :D), @Conrad. and @Ringnut . Members who help like this make this Forum a great place to be.

Whilst going down this rabbit hole has lots of challenges with learning, some of which seems a black art, the results are well worth while.

This is the initial position in my room:
original starting point.jpg


Then following optimisation:
Final Sub Results.jpg

This is an averaged Sum of the results:
before after.jpg

It sounds night and day better, tight, fast focused bass, that fits with the Mains in a much better way. Oodles of "Chest Slam" that is making me smile from ear to ear (John Wick NightClub, The Accountant Pumpkins, and Underwater opening scenes).

Still much learning to be done as interpreting the Sweeps and making the right changes are my main questions at the moment to unravel this voodoo :rotfl:

But I wanted to put this in a post to encourage people with very real results, in a very small room. Thanks Guys.
 
The supplied manual for the Arendal 1961 1s & 1v that comes with the Subs is missing several important pages. The proper manual is here.

I'm now at the point to make a few changes in my room now that I'm very happy with the Subs.

I'm going to create some breathing space at the back of the room. As you can tell from the pictures it's quite tight and constrained being a small room. So the plan is (thanks to @jfinnie and @mikemag ):

1) Upgrade the Surrounds to MK SUR55T's (coming Tuesday from @Seriously Ltd ).
2) Move the MK K4T's to the Surround Rears replacing my last Kef Eggs (so I can sell all 5) until I can save for another set of SUR55T's.
3) Use a Black Besta Unit with smoked glass under the Centre Speaker and move the Amp, UHD Player, Should and Nas into it. This has the added benefit of lifting my Centre by about 8cm which I need. Use some Devore to cover the Unit (not that the front can be seen at all in the current quick photo with all the lights on and flash!).
4) Rewire everything :( using cables that are the correct length including using banana plugs on a few that don't have them today, ands tags on all cables as to what they are ;)
5) Wall mount the Projector up high on back wall.
6) Give Wifey back her lovely Cabinet that the Projector currently stands on.
7) Try and stop looking at AT Screens that would fit the entire wall and would necessitate yet another redo of the front wall.

This completely frees the rear of the room allowing a change in seating or extra space for bean bags. At present fitting three adults in the room is a struggle.
 
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Great results, very impressive. I am getting a 2nd sub myself so it is all ahead of me :)

Are you using Audyssey in the end or there is no need for it?
 
Great results, very impressive. I am getting a 2nd sub myself so it is all ahead of me :)

Are you using Audyssey in the end or there is no need for it?
Yes definitely using Audyssey.

The process ended up being:

1) Turn off Audyssey. Use recommended settings on each Sub (in this case for the Arendal 1961 1s's this was Ref Setting, -6db Input Gain, Number of Subs 2).
2) Use REW and MiniDsp 2x4HD to time align Subs by testing at various delays. Looking for flattest line and highest combined output (measuring both Subs but using a delay of 0.25ms increments - first Sub 1 then Sub 2). Ended up using Sub 2 delay of 2.5ms. From that point on the Subs are time aligned and should be treated as one Sub to the AVR.
3) Reset AVR Crossovers on all speakers bar Subs to recommended XO's. On mine this should be 80Hz but 100Hz is actually better. Then with this done, run Audyssey.
4) With Audyssey on, use REW to look at L,C,R without Subs, Subs only (by running a left sweep with left main disconnected).
5) Further adjust AVR Sub Distance (timing) to align with mains (turns out a reduction of 90cm was best).
6) Run sweeps of L+Subs, R+Subs, C+Subs, and then adjust Sub levels with a REW created PEQ Filter added to MiniDsp Input 1 (which Subs are connected to Output 1 and 2).

@mb3195 found that the Subs were actually running 6db to low, so this may be because the Arendal recommended setup (without MiniDsp using Denon/Audyssey) is -6db, which we had set. Suspect the MiniDsp didn't help here. So I reset both Subs on their settings (not on the AVR) to 0db Input Gain back up from -6db Input Gain.

Have also added a further 3db uplift on the AVR for taste :D. Now I'd like to say I knew how all this was actually done but what we actually looked at for 5) and 6) to get there is a mystery:facepalm:
 

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