I have had this amp for about 2 years and have been really happy with it.
I generally use it in the config Xbox1 -> Yamaha -> LG TV
I had it working with Xbox controlling both the TV and the Yamaha. "Xbox Volume Up" etc would turn the amp up. I tried to do a firmware update 1.44->1.45 and that failed. Now the HDMI Control is ignored. I have tried both the Network and USB method to update to 1.5 and both fail. Any ideas how I can force a firmware update onto the device or rollback to say 1.3 and start again?
I have the RX-V677 receiver and Klipsch R-28F as front speakers and Klipsch R-15M as surround ones. Still missing a sub and a center speaker but this will be fixed soon I hope
The front speakers are set to LARGE and the surround as SMALL in the receiver. Sub and center speakers are set as not used.
The PC is connected to the AVR with an HDMI cable. When I send a multichannel audio to the receiver, since I am missing a sub and a center speaker, the AVR is mixing these channels into the front speakers. So far so good, there is a lot of bass, most of the times I really think that I do not need a separate sub, everything is shaking, it is just great.
The problem is when I listen to stereo music 2.0, not upmixing it to 4.1 or 5.1. When the signal send to the receiver is a 2 channel stereo music there is no bass, I need to play manually with the PEQ and boost the lower frequencies in order to get some lets say good bass response from the speakers.
When the LFE channel from multichannel audio is mixed into the front speakers there is an incredible level of low frequencies, so the R-28F can have a lot of bass indeed, but why such is missing when in stereo.
Do you guys have something on your mind? I will appreciate every advice.
Hi all, on the surround decode button which setting do I want? Pro logic? When set to that the info front screen flashes Dolby digital for about 4 seconds then back to pro logic and so on, is this the best sound setting for me?
If auto works fine then use that...
If it keeps going off when you don't want it to then leave it on all the time.
The idea is that it powers off when you are not using it.
The best sound setting is what you like it to be for your setup, however for TV generally most people use PLIIx Movie or Neo:6 Cinema.
Most people then use Straight to watch DTS or DD encoded movies.
It should auto switch when an encoded source is played.
If auto works fine then use that...
If it keeps going off when you don't want it to then leave it on all the time.
The idea is that it powers off when you are not using it.
The best sound setting is what you like it to be for your setup, however for TV generally most people use PLIIx Movie or Neo:6 Cinema.
Most people then use Straight to watch DTS or DD encoded movies.
It should auto switch when an encoded source is played.
It is usually suggested not to use auto power features on subs if using them in conjunction with a home theatre set up. The switching doesn't always engage or react fast enough so the sub fails to handle all of the audio being sent and or being redirected to it. It is suggested that any auto power feature be bypassed if at all possible.
Stereo audio doesn't come with a discrete LFE channel so it you want to utilise the sub with stereo sources then you have to designate your front left and right speakers as being SMALL. You'd then set a crossover for the receiver to use in conjunction with those speakers. The crossover would be the point at and below which the receiver would redirect the frequencies ordinarilly output to your front speakers to the sub for it to handle instead of the front speakers.
No, It is generally not advisable to use or engage extra bass. You are far better catered for by using the receiver's inbuilt bass management as I outlined rather than using the extra bass setting. Such features tend to result in bass boom. The ideal is to not have both the speakers and the sub handling the exact same frequencies and you divert the frequencies the speakers are less able to potray away from them to the sub which should be better equipped to output them.
Or not, as in my experience.
If Utterchaos wants full range stereo and subwoofer then the Extra Bass is the ONLY way to achieve it, simulating a HiFi amplifier without any room EQ processing but with a subwoofer output .
Utterchaos can then adjust settings to minimize boominess if he so chooses, providing he even gets boominess.
The really ideal way in any case is to use a subwoofer EQ processor like the Antimode 8033SII.
We've given him both sides of the story now - leave him to choose.
Extra bass is basically no different than pressing the loudness button on older stereo systems. It has nothing at all to do with utilising the sub or the bass management you'd associate with an AV receiver.
The extra bass setting boosts the bass present and has nothing at all to do with the portrayal of actual full range audio as it was recorded.
So are you suggesting he reconfigure his entire setup so that he can then use the extra bass feature without issue? Maybe it would be a lot simpler to not use it to begin with?
The issue with it is that it duplicates the same frequencies via both the sub and the speakers simultaneously. This is generally suggested to be a cause of issues relating to bass boom. You can utilise the sub in conjunction with audio lacking a discrete LFE cannel by designating your speakers as being SMALL and using a crossover on the receiver to redirect lower frequencies at and below that crossover to the sub without using the EXtra Bass setting. It is generally suggested you set all your speakers as being SMALL anyway if using an AV receiver that includes integral bass management within a setup that also includes an active subwoofer. The following articles typify why:
I have had the RX-V677 for just under a year now and the other day it "froze" on me.
Basically I saw the display on showing "RX-V677" but no power light. It does not respond to ant button press either directly or via remote! I tried switching off and nothing so I held the power button longer - for about 10 seconds and got the message RS-232C Update with the advancing **'s like it was updateing - so left it for a few hours and nothing if I unplug then get same message when turn on - unless unplugged for around 3 minutes. in which case back to the "RX-V677" display.
I cant do the factory reset as it does not respond the "Straight" plus "Main Zone Power" button trick.
Looks like it is bricked but looking for any other ideas before returning to richer sounds at the weekend!
With the recent update on the firmware I notice that the hdmi pass through no longer boosts the cable signal so the picture quality has decreased looking dimmer. Anyone else notice this? I also notice that sometimes when I turn on the receiver there is no sound. I have to turn it off and on again and the sound comes back on.
Did you ever solve this no audio issue? I have the 679 and all was perfect for a few days, now most times when I turn the TV on and the amp powers up, there's no audio on any input and I have to power everything down and back on one or two times...which is very annoying.